Good brands of bicycles [Archive]

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smilla

17-Mar-06, 12:21pm

Can anyone give me some advice about bicycles?

Im looking at buying a secondhand bike just for going for rides around the city (probably to the pub and back mostly!) and maybe the odd off road ride.

Im thinking of getting a good brand that is well built but not outrageously expensive.

The only brands ive heard of are mongoose and malvern star. How are they?

Im 173cm tall (and a girl), what kind of specs should I be looking at?

Thanks in advance!

liz_r

17-Mar-06, 12:29pm

It's more about the running gear (eg. gears, hubs, chain etc.) specs rather than the bike brand. Shimano are the most common brand, and they do make good gear at a number of different levels. The better the running gear, the easier it is to ride, and usually the longer it will last.

When looking at a frame, lighter is obviously better but you do want it to last and not flex - look for good solid welds at the joins.

Also make sure that if you do want to go aff road that you have good strong wheels, it may cost a bit more at the time but it costs even more when you keep buckling them and have to get them fixed or replaced.

Basically go for as good as you can afford, the bike shop should be able to put something together for you to fit your budget and requirements. They should also be able to fit you to the correct size bike and set it up for you.

alowflyingpig

17-Mar-06, 12:41pm

liz_r

17-Mar-06, 12:48pm

It sounds like the best kind of bike for what smilla has described her intended use to be would be a hybrid or possibly a mountain bike.

Hybrids are good because they are versatile and lighter and easier to ride than a proper mountain bike. Most of the bikes around described as mountain bikes are actually hybrids.

You are very unlikely to want to get a road bike unless you are planning on doing some decent road riding and very little else.

smilla

17-Mar-06, 12:58pm

exactly - I want something that is halfway between. Thicker tyres and more solid but not a full on mountain bike. I really dont want to spend too much money on one, that it why I want to go a 2ndhand bike, so I can afford a better one than if I bought new.

Im thinking about buying one off Ebay but after looking I quickly realising I know sweet FA about bikes and it probably isnt a wise idea!

Thanks for you help guys.

dotDNA

17-Mar-06, 01:11pm

Norco are a Canadian company distributing an awesome range of bikes in Australia and are extremely competitive with pricing. They are well loved by beginners and pro-downhillers alike. The range is huge and anyone can afford a new one starting from $350 up to $7000.

Another company that deserves an honourable mention for their bikes is Cannondale. I have owned and raced several of them now and look forward to more. If you need to ask how much they cost, then you can't afford one. Their pricing is obscene.

PLEASE - If you must go 2nd hand, have it checked over by your local bikeshop mechanic before purchase as many probs aren't visible to the naked eye or beginner. If the seller is reluctant to do so, then run for your life.

alowflyingpig

17-Mar-06, 01:38pm

Ok, so your after a hybrid of sorts. Why not just get a mountian bike, virtually the same..

What's your price range by the way? I went bike shopping with a mate the other day and found some really really good brand new bikes for sub $400, $600 if you want a better brand with better brakes (front and rear cable disc) and better gears.

He got himself a Haro mountain bike for $400 but I had my eye on a new Giant (with disc brakes front and rear) for $600. (Both bikes had front suspension)

Advice - do not buy steel! Make sure the frame is aluminium as it is lighter and stronger. Make sure ALL cables are not bent or creased or rusty looking, they ALL should be stright with no kinks or bends and should look the same throughout the bike.

Check the gears are working properly, lift the rear off the ground and get a friend to spin the pedals whilst cycling thru the gears.

smilla

17-Mar-06, 02:19pm

boz-e

17-Mar-06, 02:31pm

I only know about road bikes but from what I've found out the key is to search around and find the best components you can get in your price range

Trek bikes are good - they've got a lifetime warranty on the frame

Felt are also good, you can often get better components within your price range with felt

but really, the best idea is to listen to someone who knows about the type of bike you want, and go to a bike shop and ask questions, the staff are always helpful

liz_r

17-Mar-06, 03:11pm

I only know about road bikes but from what I've found out the key is to search around and find the best components you can get in your price range

but really, the best idea is to listen to someone who knows about the type of bike you want, and go to a bike shop and ask questions, the staff are always helpful
Exactly :)

I have a road bike and a mountain bike, and I chose both of them after finding a bike store I really liked and having a really good talk to them about what I wanted and then we could work within my budget.

I had my road bike built for me, but my mountain bike was based on a standard model, I just changed a few things (like the rims, pedals and seat) to suit me.

Remember, they can usually do that for you, what you see in the store as a complete bike is not usually how you have to buy it, you do have the option to change things that don't suit you. It does tend to get a bit more expensive though, so this may not really be as much of an option if you are trying to keep things really cheap.

I see you're in Melbourne, that's where I bourght my bikes, I'd definately reccomend the Bicycle Superstore in Mentone. They have a great range and pretty competitive prices (they do a good range of cheaper bikes too), plus most of the staff are/were professional cyclists so they really know what they are doing (it has been over a year since I've been there though now I'm in Sydney, so hopefully they haven't changed and I just gave you bad advice!)

alowflyingpig

17-Mar-06, 03:50pm

Thanks LFP, my upper limit for my first bike would probably be about $300. Not much I know :( Thing is it's just a hobby at the moment and cant really justify spending more.
no problems. :)

You asked for some brands. I don't know many but Giant and GT are good.

Breakme

17-Mar-06, 04:14pm

Smillla (same height as me :blush: )

I bought mine brand new in the box for just over $100 including courier from Ebay!

I <3 ebay

tim-e

17-Mar-06, 04:27pm

Trek bikes are good - they've got a lifetime warranty on the frameI'm thinking about getting a Trek hybrid.

easternmyke2000

17-Mar-06, 04:43pm

Trek and Giant are the two best mainstream bicycle brands in the world.

There are three main types of mainstream bicycles:

Road Bikes
Mountain Bikes
Hybrid Bikes

Road Bikes are expensive and are usually used in races like the Tour de France. Mountain Bikes are the cheapest and most common, however their wheels are more suited to dirt tracks. Hybrid Bikes are a cross between a road bike (wheels) and mountain bike (frame).

I'd suggest you go for a pure mountain bike and change the wheels or get a hybrid...

easternmyke2000

diarx

17-Mar-06, 04:43pm

Put some hillbilly car chase music on your ipod, and you're set:

http://home.att.ne.jp/green/kaz-home/DK%20GENERAL%20LEE1.jpg

smilla

17-Mar-06, 04:45pm

Smillla (same height as me :blush: )

I bought mine brand new in the box for just over $100 including courier from Ebay!

I <3 ebay
I know, I just had my first auction ever. omg so exciting:-D

Busty

17-Mar-06, 05:10pm

Put some hillbilly car chase music on your ipod, and you're set:

http://home.att.ne.jp/green/kaz-home/DK%20GENERAL%20LEE1.jpg
I work for the importer of DK bicycles :thumb:

Redl1ne

20-Mar-06, 10:56am

I just bought myself a brand new Avanti roadbike (though with straight handle bars) for $550. Awesome bike, now i just need to ride to work for the next 30 weeks and it's paid off with all the public transport money i save

I want to start riding it more though, the 25 min ride tow ork is already feeling to short

larry_longprong

25-Mar-06, 08:57am

I'm a Norco fan.. I've got a CRR-One roadie and an LM17 Team BMX (2003 era). At the first available opportunity I will acquire a Norco mtb.

N4TE

26-Mar-06, 02:15am

Owned a lot of bikes, never gone wrong with Giant, GT and Diamond Back. At the moment I have a Diamondback hybrid with after market rims and road rubbers. I buy second hand bikes based on the frame and what running gear is on them, knowing it's easy and cheap to get a new set of nice, light tough rims and some skinny road tyres.

As far as gears and brakes go, shimano make the best enrty/intermediate level kit you can buy. They also put their name on some god-awful cheap shit for mass produced clunkers (like the cheap and nasty treks :p ). They also change the name of their product line every second fucking thursday, so keeping up with what's the good stuff and what's the shit stuff is not always easy. At the moment, Shimano Hone is the goods for newbs. You find it printed all over the gear shifts, on the deraileurs etc so you know where to look for it. If you find a nice cheap bike with Shimano Deore, Altus, Hone or Saint running gear, buy it instantly, regardless of the bike's brand. if it's packing Shimano's better ranges of non-pro kit, it's a good bike.

Frames come in brands and classes. Brands don't matter much to the entry level cyclist, classes however do. You want something good and durable, takes the odd bump up over a kerb, comfortable ride with a good range of gears for climbing hills and cruising on flats, a hybrid or a MTB is what you're looking for. (Hybrid's are lighter, less robust MTB's without the supersize frame.) Most girls prefer a step through, Trek (patooey) do unisex hybrids that look and ride great for about 12 months. Then the shit running gear starts to wear out and you've got a clunker.

Got a mate who's into bikes? Take them with you to crime converters. (oops, cash converters, my bad.) and check the racks of bikes they have for a bargain before you go spend up on a new bike. Chances are good you'll find a bargain, a nice, not well known brand of bike with good running gear, at about 30% what you should pay for it. That's where I got my diamondback with a full Deore XTR kit. Paid less for the whole bike than it would have cost to buy just the running gear alone from a bikeshop. Had some big ugly wheels and rims that made riding on a flat feel like riding up a hill, but a trip to a bike shop, an hour of tinkering and 150 bucks later, I had an awesome bike worth twice what I paid in total for it. Done the same for plenty of mates, even a few who've said "ok, if there's nothing here you like today, lets come back next week," and ended up with a bike I wish I'd brought myself, so don't discount the second hand option.

Oh, and ride safe. Just assume every bastard in a car is trying to kill you and ride accordingly, and you should be fine. Don't forget your stackhat, yo.

N4TE

26-Mar-06, 02:27am

I want to start riding it more though, the 25 min ride tow ork is already feeling to short

:lol: lived outside of Denmark, WA for a while. 24km round trip to the shop. We only had mountain bikes. (our back yard was a state forest the size of Ireland.) When I first moved in, the ride to town and back was a chore. In 3 months, it had become a good warmup for a day of thrashing scrub and running the dogs. sigh, thems was the days.

dotDNA

26-Mar-06, 12:30pm

Larry, I have a couple of 04 Fluid3's (new) in stock that we are being super negotiable with. Also, when you decide it's time to get one, no matter which model, PM me and i'll stun you with our pricing.

sway

27-Mar-06, 08:41am

my boyfriend bought me this trek hybrid - it's awesome. if you haven't been riding for a while then hybrid's are the way to go. comfortable and light enough for commuting but without the scary clip in pedals.

horst

27-Mar-06, 10:46am

Bike seems to be in the air, I too have been looking for one, so how does this cannondale look?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7227858525&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3APIC&rd=1

because there were no bids on the bike I mailed the dude and we have agreed in principle on $300, does this sound like a fair price?

Breakme

27-Mar-06, 10:53am

Horst - it seems like years ago that we were going to get bikes and go on bike rides together, come to think of it.... it was years ago!

get a bike damnit XD

horst

27-Mar-06, 10:55am

Horst - it seems like years ago that we were going to get bikes and go on bike rides together, come to think of it.... it was years ago!

get a bike damnit XD

yeah I know, and I feel really guilty that because of me you haven't actually taken your bike for a ride yet :P

Breakme

27-Mar-06, 11:14am

yeah I know, and I feel really guilty that because of me you haven't actually taken your bike for a ride yet :P
hahaha I have taken it out a couple of times :p

Surry Hills is a scary place to ride a bike!

horst

27-Mar-06, 11:48am

hahaha I have taken it out a couple of times :p

what is that?
about 0.0028 times per day?

Breakme

27-Mar-06, 11:54am

:lol: :lol: :lol: get a bike and then you can start giving me crap about not riding mine

dotDNA

27-Mar-06, 12:49pm

Yeh, get a bike, but I'm not sure about that Cannondale. This is quite freaky for me as I regularly tell people to get them and i've never had to say this.

For the price, it's not worth it. $150 tops, $100 = fair.
Looks like an ex-courier bike.
Drivetrain components are ancient.
Hubs are ancient.
Wheels are crap.
You will need to regularly spend money on this beast and within 12mnths of ownership you will have spent another $200-$300 to keep it running.
It takes the cake for the shittiest Cannondale i've ever seen and that includes the broken framed ones.
Have a look in a shop at what $300 can get you and you will see i'm right.

Come on, everyone else has to help, we can't let horst buy that.

liz_r

27-Mar-06, 01:08pm

^^ Agreed

Running gear looks ancient. You'd want to replace it pretty soon, and for the price that would cost you for new gear you may as well buy something brand new and get a frame and components that really suits you.

I looked at buying a bike off ebay when I was buying my most recent road bike - I changed my mind pretty quickly when I went to have a look at a few and realised all I would be buying is someone else's crap. It's amazing the dodgy shit that people try to pass off, and if you didn't know what you were looking at it would be very easy to be duped.

I suppose it depends what you are looking for, though - if you want something fairly cheap there are some brand new bikes on eBay that might be OK, but if you are looking at a higher end bike you are far better off getting something that suits you and that you know is in good condition and going to last.

Can't beat the value of good advice from a decent bike shop.

Redl1ne

27-Mar-06, 03:59pm

the guys at northside cycles in Chatswood know their shit, well some of them at least anyway

N4TE

27-Mar-06, 04:06pm

price check, aisle 3, deore lx hubs, gears and casset.

"look ancient?" looks 2003/4 with some fraying in the rear deraileur cable.

Yep, looks like shit. please, feel free to show me another bike for a similar price with 4/500 bucks worth of running gear on it and a hand-welded aluminium frame that looks prettier, and I'll buy it, even though I already have a great bike.

N4TE

27-Mar-06, 04:07pm

seriously dotdna, is anything not from you going to be good enough? just asking.

liz_r

27-Mar-06, 04:21pm

hey, I have no association with a bike shop and I agree with dotDNA's comments.

I have a 2003/4 MTB myself with Diore LX running gear, and I can tell you, what is pictured is definately older than what I have.

I have just learnt through experience that older stuff does need repacing regularly, and that can get pretty pricy. Generally, bike the one advertised have been hammered, and the components are probably ready to fall to pieces. I found when I looked at bikes on eBay that people were generally selling them for the reason that their old gear was knackered, and they were trying to sell it to some unsuspecting punter instead of paying the costs associated with repairing/replacing the existing running gear.

Looking at the pics of that bike, I would not value the components on that bike at anywhere near $400.

horst

27-Mar-06, 04:27pm

Ah thanks dot and liz, I was fully prepared to go today and hand over the cash, it would explain why nobody put in a bid in.
well okay I'll suppose I'll go and visit a shop, any other shops worth checking out other than chatswood?
I'm in darlinghurst.

liz_r

27-Mar-06, 04:34pm

Glad to be able to help :)

I just started going to LeSpit Cyclery in Mosman for my bike stuff and they seem pretty good, unfortunately that's the only shop I've visited in Sydney, so can't make any more reccomendations close to the city :(

KingPeZ

27-Mar-06, 04:38pm

Make sure you are buying the right size bike if you decide to go with the second hand option. Having the correct "Bike fit" should be a priority, so I would recommend doing some research on what is the best size bike for you. Your overall height doesn't necessarily determine the size of the bike you require - its actually quite complicated. Good luck :thumb:

Try this web site out for some tips and general info:

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/forumdisplay.php?f=98

dotDNA

27-Mar-06, 06:05pm

seriously dotdna, is anything not from you going to be good enough? just asking.
Valid question Nate. No offence taken.

However, my thoughtfully written un-biased reply got turfed by the itm server, and now i'v got to go to a b'day. Will answer when I get back and will post photos of a 03/04 lx drivetrain. The thing in those photos looks like biopace ffs. It's definately mid 90's components.

N4TE

27-Mar-06, 09:13pm

^^� hate it when that happens, especially when, after it happens, you realise it wasn't worth the time it took to write. But post the pics anyway, wouldn't mind a squiz. Always nice to see some sweet kit :) how about some pics of the Fluid MTB? In action even... googled it, looks noice.

nicko

27-Mar-06, 11:52pm

the guys at northside cycles in Chatswood know their shit, well some of them at least anywayThey know how to charge ridiculous prices, that's for sure. I can't comment on the knowledge but they're probably the biggest rip-off shop I have found so far.

I don't know about Malvern Star but (so I hear) mongoose used to be good but have declined.

Similarly, I'm sure there are other good brands, but I would go for a giant, gt, norco or kona.

Good bike shops: Bike Addiction at manly are fairly expensive but have some good advice to give. Fraser's at Taren Point are fairly cheap and are usually willing to talk to you. As I mentioned above, Northside seem to be an absolute rip-off. A friend just got a Felt from Glebe Cyclery and they have fiddled him round, but he got a decent price so doesn't mind. In any case, employ a healthy dose of skepticism, read as many reviews as possible and shop around to work out all your options thoroughly.

Bear in mind (this may not apply so much to the lower end of the spectrum) that margins seem to be large on most bikes, so you can work quite a discount on some things

If you shop around, then you'll be fine if you make sure you are happy with what you get. There's no use getting convinced into something by friends or advice from strangers, it's an easy trap to fall into.

If you're just thinking of motoring round the city and going on the occasional trail, you don't need anything fancy at all. Plenty of people have an old bike they would sell for 20-50 dollars and which would do you fine. Tooling about the suburbs can be done on an ancient wreck, and you stand less chance of having it stolen.

A final piece of advice, watch yourself on ebay/similar. There are some real shitters on there for dirt cheap prices - not to say everything on there is necessarily crap, but friends have got some terrible deals that defied commonsense at the time and endangered life and limb shortly afterwards.

tecks

28-Mar-06, 12:35am

i think brands are much of a muchness at the bottom end of the market.
mongoose
gt
giant
norco
cannondale
trek/gary fisher
mcneil

okay maybe not that last one, but they're some sweet frames :)

as most people have said, look for good running gear. shimano's cheap stuff is, well, cheap. but they're pricier stuff is good. most SRAM stuff is pretty tough.

nicko

28-Mar-06, 12:42am

Yes SRAM is fast as shit. Shimano have some new stuff out that apparently rivals it for changing speed though. Just a hint - don't get X-9 levers. They break much easier than X-7 plastic ones.

Do cannondale make a sub-1k bike? Apart from their learner range (complete with trainer wheels) ;)

Redl1ne

28-Mar-06, 11:21am

They know how to charge ridiculous prices, that's for sure. I can't comment on the knowledge but they're probably the biggest rip-off shop I have found so far.

The guy openly admitted that to me in the shop saying that while they are definitely not the cheapest in Sydney, they pride themselves on their service and thats why they go so well depsite the pricing. I didnt feel like he was trying to sell me anything as well which is a huge plus, just gave me good information and telling me exactly what I needed for what I would be using it for even though I gave him the opportunity to do the massive upsell. (think i was speaking to the owner as well)

And they gave me a 5% discount, plus free service and also said any problems just bring it in to the shop and they will help me out.

Maybe not the best shop for an experienced rider on a budget, for anyone else though they probably offer everything you're after especially if you live or work in the area as I do.

N4TE

28-Mar-06, 02:59pm

Free, friendly after market service can save you a couple of hundred a year if you flog the shit out of your deadly, don't know how to change your own rubbers, can't replace a cable, tension your own spokes, or peg the card onto the back of the frame proper like. Willing to bet everyone at that shop, with the possible exception of the manager, rides to work and goes out riding with mates after work and on the weekend. These are the kind of people you want to buy a bike off. imo.

daydreamer77

28-Mar-06, 03:00pm

i ride a Norco and i think i'm cool :)

it's a 20 inch hybrid, i paid $360 brand new. it's blue :blush:

N4TE

28-Mar-06, 03:12pm

Do cannondale make a sub-1k bike? Apart from their learner range (complete with trainer wheels) ;)

apart from entry level?

...computer says no.

*cough*

SPOKEYDOKEY

28-Mar-06, 03:50pm

tension your own spokes

computer says spokes

N4TE

28-Mar-06, 05:42pm

ticktictictangtictoktingtangtocktoktiktangtiktokto ckticktaktoktingtaktocktock

= spokeydokeys

:sigh: I miss them.

*pegs a card to the stays*
ruhruhruhruhruhruhruhruhruhruhruhruhruhruhruhruhr. ...

it's just not the same.

N4TE

28-Mar-06, 05:46pm

3speed (frame mounted T bar shifter, of course) dragstar oddball with 5 foot sissy bar, 2.5 foot glittery bannana seat and streamers on the handelbars ftw.

liz_r

28-Mar-06, 05:47pm

I did the BRW triathlon on Sunday and some twat had spokeydokeys on his wheels.

Drove me fkn bonkers so I overtook him and kicked his arse.

I think the fact he had spokeydokeys on his bike in a race should have given me some clue that he was unlikely to get over 20km/h.

SPOKEYDOKEY

28-Mar-06, 06:26pm

:lol: yeppers, spokeydokey always guarantees seriousnes :lol:

...nate, send me an address and i'll send you the spokeydokeys :lol:

nicko

28-Mar-06, 08:53pm

The guy openly admitted that to me in the shop saying that while they are definitely not the cheapest in Sydney, they pride themselves on their service and thats why they go so well depsite the pricing. I didnt feel like he was trying to sell me anything as well which is a huge plus, just gave me good information and telling me exactly what I needed for what I would be using it for even though I gave him the opportunity to do the massive upsell. (think i was speaking to the owner as well)

And they gave me a 5% discount, plus free service and also said any problems just bring it in to the shop and they will help me out.

Maybe not the best shop for an experienced rider on a budget, for anyone else though they probably offer everything you're after especially if you live or work in the area as I do.Yeah you're right, I think I may have just lost my cool at them for a second there..

dotDNA

28-Mar-06, 10:05pm

Ok, just took some shot's of the Lx hubs and rear derailleur on our 05 fluid2 then realised that was pointless.

So, found a couple of net photos that show 03Lx components. But, since noticing the advertised bike was 7speed confirms my guess at early 90's parts on the advertised bike anyway.

03 Lx cranks
http://img377.imageshack.us/img377/6420/lx033wi.jpg

03 Lx shifter
http://img61.imageshack.us/img61/5471/lxint7dw.jpg

03 Lx groupset
http://img377.imageshack.us/img377/5411/shimanolx039fg.jpg

Now if they were on that bike, it would have had serious bids.

Ok, sorted.

Next point, I just don't get paid enough to sway my advice on bicycles from the truth to marketing hype. If you want crazy wheels, look at Mavic and Easton. Sickest suspension is Fox or Showa (Honda) with Ohlins coming soon. Rockshox give me the shits, but that may improve now Sram own them. Maxxis tyres rule.
Downhill tubes suck ass and 2.8+ tyres are for pepsi-max heroes that can't ride for ****. The 3-inch Gazzalodi's deserve to be inshrined in a museum for wankers. And the 'weight doesn't matter' in downhilling theory is seriously the funniest thing i've ever heard. Honda and Cannondale agree with me, but people still say it.

Anyway, you'll see i'm way too opinionated to modify my advice based on our stock or lack of it. Tomorrow, i'll pull some pics and vid footage of the 04Fluid3 for ya. And i'll make sure I include and detail it's weaknesses too.

For now, here's the usual Factory page (http://www.norco.com/bikes/2004bikes/fluid3.htm) for the bike. It is the exact spec and colour.

Sorry for the delay, i'm hella crook at the moment with H. Pylori antibiotic treatment.

dotDNA

30-Mar-06, 02:35pm

This is not an ad. It is information requested of me, and conveniently supports my assertion that Norco are pretty cool.

http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/1603/fluid314bm.th.jpg (http://img89.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fluid314bm.jpg) Hayes Nine Hydraulics. Pros=Hayes - Cons=Only adjustable for lever reach, not travel2contact.

http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/5210/fluid329on.th.jpg (http://img89.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fluid329on.jpg) Fox propedal shock. V plush, adjustable rebound damping, spring rate. No compression damping or propedal adjustment.

(http://img89.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fluid333qh.jpg])http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/4849/fluid333qh.th.jpg 4bar Horst link swingarm. All sealed bearings. No cons.

(http://img509.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fluid353ud.jpg])http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/1633/fluid353ud.th.jpg 7005 tubeset. V stiff. My 05 fluid has 6061=not as nice as 7005.

(http://img89.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fluid360nw.jpg])http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/516/fluid360nw.th.jpg Welds. Are not up to C/dale standards, but i've been spoilt. This is the worst shot of them.

(http://img20.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fluid370ea.jpg])http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/969/fluid370ea.th.jpg This shot is more indicative of the weld quality.

(http://img20.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fluid387hb.jpg])http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/6140/fluid387hb.th.jpg 5D crankset, ISIS drive, 7005 chainrings.

(http://img20.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fluid391mn.jpg])http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/7974/fluid391mn.th.jpg 04 coil EXR pro 120mm. Easy preload adj, damping adj requires oil weight/level adjustment.

(http://img518.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fluid3b14vm.jpg])http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/9581/fluid3b14vm.th.jpg Cane Creek HS. Have not seen any pitted bearings with these, yet.

(http://img518.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fluid3b25be.jpg])http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/3384/fluid3b25be.th.jpg Hayes twin opposed piston calipers. Cons=2 piece casting not as stiff as an el camino or even a sole. Still xlnt power, but I like more feel/feedback.

(http://img20.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fluid3b39ol.jpg])http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/6100/fluid3b39ol.th.jpg <-- Mildly dodgy 1mm misalignment where seat tube support mounts to frame. All of these models that i've seen have it. Doesn't affect seat tube placement/alignment but it's visually noticable when over the bike.

(http://img518.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fluid3b41ym.jpg])http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/672/fluid3b41ym.th.jpg Another typical set of welds for this model.

(http://img20.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fluid3b52pz.jpg])http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/3346/fluid3b52pz.th.jpg Gratuitous 7005 taperwall tubing shot with bonus product placement.

(http://img526.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fluid3b64ib.jpg])http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/2792/fluid3b64ib.th.jpg Looks mean. Not as mean as mine but still v cool visually.

(http://img526.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fluid3b83ow.jpg])http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/556/fluid3b83ow.th.jpg Another 4bar swingarm shot. No poxy unified rear triangle designs here, thnx mongoose, ya tools.

(http://img20.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fluid3b90ba.jpg])http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/958/fluid3b90ba.th.jpg 6' front & rear discs. Is adaptable to 7's and 8's. Already ample power, but a 7' or 8' on the front would amplify feel which I crave for endo's.

(http://img526.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fluid3c11ja.jpg])http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/7232/fluid3c11ja.th.jpg The cockpit/ejector seat.

(http://img526.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fluid3c24lf.jpg])http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/1452/fluid3c24lf.th.jpg A 180 stall trying to show nimbleness/stiffness.

(http://img526.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fluid3c37no.jpg])http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/3509/fluid3c37no.th.jpg part 2.

Sizing for 4bar Norcos is out by 1. I'm 6" and I ride a small. 6"2'-6' is medium. Large is ridiculous. Factory riders go by that scale too.
You have been looking at a small. They all have the same wheelbase. Smalls offer much better stand-over clearance and lower centre of gravity by a bee's dick.
The standard tyres are Maxxis Dynomite's @2.1'. I don't like em. 'Larsens' or 'Swampthings' both work well on the fluids depending on the type of riding you do.
Groupset is full Deore9spd. No mix and match here. They could've put an LX/XT rear der. on it and down specced everything else like so many other manufacturers, but that's not Norco's style. Good parity spec.

Not quoting a price here, as Nate asked for spec info and I don't want this to appear as spam.

We also run these as our top-end rental so i've had a good opportunity to assess them out in the real world. Dead horse to Pinch River, Eucumbene to Guthega and Charlottes to Kosi. Big smiles all round from all who have tried them.

Vid footage soon. Got some yest. but my gf's camera wk doesn't do it justice. Pls don't ask for a photo of my 05 as they are unobtainable now.

Now I just have to hope the mods are tolerant of my ridiculous # of thumbs. I've never pushed it this far b4. If the server knocks my post back and blanks my( 2hrs) work I think i'll cry. Yes, I definately will.

I'm really not fussed which dealer people get their bikes from. Norco's balance of performance/value=happiness and that's my main point.

nicko

31-Mar-06, 12:21am

I'll preface this by saying I know next to nothing about bikes, and most of this is heresay from what I have heard from overeager friends. I'd be interested to hear your opinion on these though

Lost quotes because page reloaded - so I've done it in point form

- Hayes 9 are seen as the poor man's disc system, having problems with fade, or is it long-term power, I've forgotten? (this is on farkin, but are they just elitist?). 6 inches is small.

- Dude at uni said compression is important on your shocks. SCoffed at my rebound-only fox 3.0s

- More pivot points the looser the thing after wear? Single swing arms are seen as better?

dotDNA

31-Mar-06, 02:43am

No worries dude, valid questions. Many variables but i'll go into each and try not to write a thesis on it. Now I am forced to mention, the bike is priced at $1695, to give some perspective to my comments.

- Hayes 9 are seen as the poor man's disc system, having problems with fade, or is it long-term power, I've forgotten? (this is on farkin, but are they just elitist?). 6 inches is small.

The Hayes 9's are indeed targeted towards the mass production OEM standard equipment/value end of the market. Farkin are far from elitist. They're comments need to take in the full spectrum of parts which fall under their range of interest and rider skill levels. Their consistent access to high-level race/stunt quality machines, means they view the mtb world from the top down. In comparison to the full 'el-camino' setup on a 'team downhill' or shimano's 'hone' or XT and some avids, they are spot on, but there is more to it than that.
From a purely performance point of view, to put the 6' Nine's on a 20kg DH/FR rig would amplify their weaknesses and ? the sanity of the mechanic/rider. Stopping a DH rig at full tilt requires a relatively special (read expensive) system such as the 8' Camino or Hone. Put the Camino's on the 13-14kg(?) all mountainXC Fluid and you introduce a whole bunch of equally serious problems. Think F1 brakes on a WRX or vice-versa. This mismatch of intended design roles is where many criticism's originate. The brakes need to be fitted to the appropriate bike to work as intended. 8' on the 20kg and 6' on the 14kg feels about right to me. 6', 7' & 8' discs are available for fitment to all Hayes to fine tune power/feel characteristics as is a large variety of pad compounds.
The 'poor man's discs' tag is always reserved for all cable actuated models as they are all shit (my apologies to any owners) and undermine the advantages of moving to discs. To add the Nine's to that list as a full hydraulic twin piston setup with a tried and tested design benefiting from years of refinement is a testament to Hayes ability to produce quality OEM equipment at a low price point.

Fade and or power loss is something that usually stems from mechanical stupidity and an inability to read/understand the correct setup/maintenance procedures. If any customer's Hayes fade (I see a few), it has never been attributable to a design fault. The most common culprits are air bubbles in the lines which are compressable and expand as the brake fuid heats from use, therefore amplifying the sponginess at the lever resulting in crap brakes. The next major culprit is pads and/or discs being contaminated with brake fluid by errant attempts to bleed them improperly (also a big cause of air bubbles). The next cause is brake fluids, detergents and disc brake cleaning solutions that are not appropriate for use with Hayes. Next is long term wear on master cylinder and caliper seals. All brakes sufffer from this over time and Hayes usually show greater endurance in this area than many competitors. Next, but reasonably rare, is a badly detensioned set of wheels. Usually the dopes randomly crank up the spokes and then come and go 'gee Mr, can you straighten/tune/build wheels?'

Air bubbles = Full bleed and fluid replacement with Dot4 or preferably Dot5 ($$$) and the correct tools. Dot3 is cat piss. The higher the number, the higher the boiling point. Low boiling point Dot3 can and will result in formulation of air bubbles during extended hard usage. All of our disc bikes are fitted with Dot4 before customer pickup/delivery.

Pad and disc contamination = Pads soaked in brake fluid are destroyed. New ones are essential. Contaminated discs are restored by washing with isopropyl alcohol only to a new state. Disc honing/machining is rarely needed. Wiping Hayes discs daily with Iso. alc. is highly recommended by me.

Long term seal wear = Disassembly and rebuild with a seal kit is easy/fast with the right tools and lubes. The only grease to be used on rubber brake seals, to prevent tearing on reassembly is lithium based. Back yarders often use petroleum based greases and they highly accelerate rubber's rate of decay. Think vaseline and condoms. doh.

This is just an example of why a good relationship with your local bike shop is essential to your safety and enjoyment.

That's the first question out of the way. Break time.

SpaceMonkey

02-Apr-06, 10:18pm

I bought a new bike late last year to start commuting to work on. As a complete bike n00b at the time these wre my experiences.
1: don't even think about buying a bike at K-Mart, Big W etc. The may be cheap but the quality is crap, the choice of frame sizes is crap and the staff know nothing. Bike shops cost more but the quality of goods and service are well worth it.
2: Buy a mountain bike if you are planning on doing any off-road stuff, hybrids won't handle anything more than a smooth dirt road. That said be honest with yourself, are you REALLY going to go for those weekend off-road rides you're thinking about? I bought a mountain bike and have used it for nothing but commuting for the best part of three months, I should probably have really got a hybrid.
3: Budget a bit for extras, you'll need a helmet, bottle cage and lock minimum, I also got lights, a decent pump and a under-seat gear bag with spare tube and tyre levers so I can change flats on the go. I also upgraded the bike's standard nylon pedals to alloy models, and swapped the dirt tyres for dual purpose ones.

I ended up going with a GT Avalanche 3.0 from Brookvale Bike Factory, they weren't the cheapest but their service was excellent. I've been very happy with it so far. The complete set-up cost a little over $600. I could've probably got a supermarket bike for under hald that, but I'm glad I didn't. It's almost paid for itself in train fairs now anyway!

Redl1ne

03-Apr-06, 05:08pm

liz_r

03-Apr-06, 05:24pm

I'm a bit worried about hot my road bike will be handling some of the bumps I put it through, and while i never hmmer it off gutters, i do need to go up them occasionally...

The way the guy at bike store didnt seem to think to highly of the hybrids though, good for someone who will never have any ambition to ride it long distances or take it off road, jack of all trades but doesnt do either well enough to recommend it (thats the impression I got anyway)
You could always invest in some stronger rims - they will be heavier than the normal road bike ones but should stand up a bit better to some gutter bashing. If you are not riding for long distances or racing the slight weight increase shouldn't be that much of an issue.

Hybrids are good because they are a bit more stable and sturdy than road bikes, plus can handle a little off road or trail riding if need be, yet are not as heavy as MTBs. Road bikes are not comfortable or easy to ride on much else but a road! I don't see much point in buying a mountainbike with a heavy frame and suspention if you are not going to do proper MTB riding, it will just become a pain in the arse. If you want a lighter MTB you will have to generally pay $$$ for it.

I made the decision to invest in both a decent road bike and a MTB because I do enough of both type of riding to justify having a specialised bike for each type of riding.

Jobby

04-Apr-06, 12:38am

SpaceMonkey

04-Apr-06, 08:58am

The way the guy at bike store didnt seem to think to highly of the hybrids though, good for someone who will never have any ambition to ride it long distances or take it off road, jack of all trades but doesnt do either well enough to recommend it (thats the impression I got anyway)

The impression I got of hybrids is that they are fine for commuting or touring but forget them if you are doing anything rougher than your average dirt road, and don't even think about riding up gutters etc on one. I'd still buy one over a road bike personally though as I've no interest in serious sspporty type road riding, I just ride to work or cruise around on the weekend.

Redl1ne

04-Apr-06, 09:18am

liz_r

04-Apr-06, 09:58am

Yeah I do the same type of riding and thats why I went in for asking for one until he talked me out of it, he seemed to know his stuff

And I'm finding the more i ride, the more i want to ride so maybe the road nbike was the right move. But anyone have any comments on riding long distances etc with a straight handle bar road bike?
I would definately reccomend drop bars for a road bike.

Road bikes are designed for you to sit in a very different position to a MTB, and I'm quite surprised that they supplied you a road bike with straight bars. I can't see that you could really get into the right position with them. I'm also not sure exactly how you could mount road bike gear/brake leavers correctly on straight bars!?

With a road bike you should be sitting angled forward with your hands usually lower than your seat. Your back should also be fairly straight. This is the most comfortable and aerodynamic position for long rides, and the most economic position for changing gears and braking.

Also, make sure you get your bike correctly fitted and sized if you are planning on doing any longer rides, it makes a huge difference. Most good bikeshops will offer this service.

liz_r

04-Apr-06, 09:59am

...and just can't find comfortable positioning, starting to think my next frame will have to be custom.
I had my road bike custom built - best thing I could have done. Costs a bit more but definately worth it. :thumb:

Redl1ne

04-Apr-06, 03:48pm

the straight bar bikes were the cheaper option and there were plenty of road bikes there that have them. I think part of the reasoning is I'm riding with a relatively heavy backback on a lot fo the time full of my work gear which makes the more upright position more comfortable (I think?)

There were plenty of straight barred road bikes there though, some of which weren't cheap at all

Here's what I got though mines red, cause they go faster

http://www.avanti.co.nz/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=35&Itemid=54

supa

04-Apr-06, 04:25pm

Give Avanti a go http://www.avanti.co.nz/, I've had three of their bikes now and have been happy with all of them, they are a NZ brand and have a very wide range from recreational to semi-professional...good value for money too, i've seen other bikes which are absolute rubbish for the same money......only complaint I have is with sizing i'm on an xl frame and just can't find comfortable positioning, starting to think my next frame will have to be custom.

i've been covetting one of these http://www.woolyswheels.com/listman/listings/l0160.html for longer than i care to admit, am seriously considering borrowing some extra $$ when i buy a new car next month and just getting it. it's so beautiful :love:, one of my friends has it and it's not fair :mad:

at the moment i ride a giant OCR3 - the componentry is good and the bike itself is very light. but i bought it second hand as my first road bike ever and it's coming up to 5 years old now. i want new cleats, need new brakes, have stacked it and scratched it a few times whilst i was learning... may as well get a new bike :p

Jobby

04-Apr-06, 06:01pm

i've been covetting one of these http://www.woolyswheels.com/listman/listings/l0160.html for longer than i care to admit, am seriously considering borrowing some extra $$ when i buy a new car next month and just getting it. it's so beautiful :love:, one of my friends has it and it's not fair :mad:

at the moment i ride a giant OCR3 - the componentry is good and the bike itself is very light. but i bought it second hand as my first road bike ever and it's coming up to 5 years old now. i want new cleats, need new brakes, have stacked it and scratched it a few times whilst i was learning... may as well get a new bike :p

It is a nice bike, you can probably haggle a bit on the price.....I noticed one at http://www.pro-am.com.au/ (in QLD) for $2199 2006 model, looks like they're chucking in some extra goodies too......

Stealth_M0de

07-Apr-06, 06:47pm

if u want a good bike with a decent spec and bang for buck check out giant.. thay cater for all types of riders... also go to your Local bike shop and talk to the staff they will always point u in the right direction. =)

horst

09-Apr-06, 06:03pm

So I finally, I got a bike, and would you believe it is a new Giant, I went to 5 bike shops and ended up buying from the shop assistant who pissed me off the least, I spent more then I really wanted but I'm satisfied that it is reasonable value.
it's the CRX 4 (http://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/030.000.000/030.000.000.asp?model=10017) for $600.
After believeing that I needed a hybrid bike, the last guy managed to convince me that what I actually wanted was a flatbar roadbike or what he called a commuter bike.
After not having a bike for 15 years I'm really impressed how bike technology has come along, how smooth it runs and how it seems to keep to wanting to roll on forever on a flat bits. So I've done about 2 hours riding today and my uncalloused arse really knows it, my legs hurt, but I reckon I've lost at least 4 grams of fat!

So Ez you ready to snap on your bike shorts?

NEILOSH

11-Jan-07, 08:48am

I've narrowed my choices down to two bikes.

CELL - TEAM - road bike : http://www.cellbikes.com.au/product.php?id=58

&

GIANT - OCR3 : http://www2.giant-bicycles.com/en-AU/bikes/road/76/22222/

Any comments?

I'm leaning towards the Cell bike.

cupids valentine

11-Jan-07, 09:11am

you should get one of these

ricksta

11-Jan-07, 10:41am

I own a Giant Iguana (mountain bike) and a Giant OCR0 (road bike). I got the OCR0 because it was a 2006 model and on special and I didn't see any advantage to me personally of owning the more expensive OCR3, 2 or 1.

I have thrashed the Iguana in the bush and the major damage I have done to it is broken that weak derailleur bit (twice) which they tell me is designed to break to avoid snapping the more expensive derailleur, so I reckon it's a pretty good bike.

Meester

11-Jan-07, 01:06pm

NEILOSH

11-Jan-07, 01:25pm

boz-monaut

11-Jan-07, 03:32pm

nielosh - that cell bike looks really good - you're getting 105 components for only a little over a grand

I'd get that over the giant you linked to definatley - 105 >>>> sora

Brother Al

12-Jan-07, 09:38am

i ride my cell bike every day for 26 kms and it rocks. It wasnt the most expensive bike but i really enjoy riding it. I'm not a competitive rider or try to be hardcore, but i really like my bike.

MTX-2 with disc brakes and Deure LX gear thingo

ricksta

12-Jan-07, 07:54pm

Never ridden a Cell so I can't really comment. I'm not good on parts.

AfroLeft

29-Jan-07, 12:27pm

Marco

28-Mar-07, 03:21pm

What are people's thoughts on a bike like this from eBay?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=016&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=260100831065&rd=1&rd=1

fatman1234

28-Mar-07, 05:10pm

Specialized.

I have a "Stumpjumper" with slicks (cos i mostly do city rides). I have owned Trek, GT, and Giant, and the Specialized is so much better.

I hate hybrids. They're so ugly and silly looking.

Also, if in Sydney, try Burwood Cycle World, the guys in there are awesome.

I'll second that, I own a 98 Specialized Stumpjumper(1 model down from the full XTR equiped team bike), had it for just over 9 yrs and frame still in perfect condition, spent 6 months deciding on which bike, and the only ones i would of prefered were high-end cannondales($6-7000) or custom frames. Frame was handmade in US, but lower end specialized are still top quality. The manitou shocks died after couple years and were upgraded to Fox F80RLT, so sweet worth the extra $.

hank23

03-Apr-07, 11:51pm

hi all, predominantly a runner who got into tri's. Ride a cervelo p2, probably don't do it justice but it was a reasonable deal and gets me across the line quite nicely.

SydneyDiscoKIng

24-May-07, 05:25pm

All you MTB's please help me out ;D

When it comes to bikes, like most things, im a n00b. I want to get a MTB (anything under say $700) but have no idea what to get. Ideally i want something that will be able handle the good trails in the blue mountains etc but for now I will just be riding around my local area (Some Large hills/small mountains) to get fitness back to where it should be.

After searching the net reading up on stuff i find i have sweet fuck all idea of what i want, i keep getting confused on what are good components and what are not. Any help would be appreciated before i walk into my local bike shop and tell them what i am vaguely after. I don't want them to think i am a complete noob and sell me something i dont need/want.

Thanks

sOuNdOne

24-May-07, 05:50pm

http://bikeshop.com.ua/images/FB_GL_Candy_Red_KLopt.jpg

http://bikeshop.com.ua/images/Demo_8_Ano_Grey.jpg

Theglove

24-May-07, 05:56pm

they are fucking dope dude.

wots ze brand. im getting.

sOuNdOne

24-May-07, 06:08pm

werd.

http://www.specialized.com/

t0mmy

27-May-07, 03:01pm

After reading what has been said so far i think it would be a good idea to go to a bike shop and speak to a 'learned' salesperson to get my head around all the bullshit. That being said could anyone recommend a shop in or around The Hills / Parramatta / Blacktown areas. I'm willing to travel a bit but i think having your shop close to home would be a smart choice.

SydneyDiscoKIng

14-Dec-07, 02:06pm

Anybody know anything about the Atomik range of bikes? Dude at the local bike shop said to take a look at them but I'm not so sure?

retzie

14-Dec-07, 03:24pm

SDK - if you can, I'd try to bump your budget up a couple of hundred. With bikes under a grand, the return for a little more cash is pretty big.

I have an Avanti Ridge Rider (http://www.avantibikes.com/comp-mtb/montari.aspx?bid=37), which I love. Haven't really taken it properly off road, but it coped with Around the Bay (and all the associated training) without the slightest hitch. Not to mention that it survived a decent road stack with nothing more than a bit of gravel rash. It's also nice to be buying local(ish).

SydneyDiscoKIng

14-Dec-07, 09:17pm

I was planning on spending $1000-$1300 but just looking around at the moment and reading up on stuff. Going to start visiting a few decent bike shops come the new year. Will look into those Avanti's. Thanks.

Benny and the jets

19-Dec-07, 06:07pm

SydneyDiscoKIng

19-Dec-07, 06:50pm

Anybody got some ideas on bikes in the $1000-$1300 price range I can go looking at online before walking into the shop in the next two weeks so I have some idea? Im pretty much set on an all mountain hardtail as it suits what I want to do perfectly and is about all I can afford :lol:

Curtrently googling those already mentioned. Thanks :thumb:

didjeridude

19-Dec-07, 10:38pm

Giant FTW. Look at the Alias for $995 or Talon at $1295 if you can stretch the budget that far. Lifetime warranty on frame, best value for the component spec. you get for the money. You can't go wrong with a Giant. Trek are quite good as well, not as good value for money at that price point, but also lifetime frame warranty and 3 year parts warranty.I second this. Giant have a very good service reputation and so do Trek. I have broken my trek y-frame twice and had it replaced both times without a fuss.

To anyone reading this thead who wants to get into mountain biking.

DON'T SPEND LESS THAN $1000 ON A NEW BIKE.

You'll be paying for it later when everything starts breaking on your cheap shitter you thought you got a great deal on.

Other good brands going around doing pretty sweet deals atm are Scott and Kona

eg...

http://thebikebarn.com.au/kona.htm

buffed

19-Dec-07, 11:54pm

Is GT is a good brand for BMXs? They have been mentioned a bit here but i'm ot sure if thats only talking about thier bigger bikes.
I'm thinking of buying a BMX soon and the shop I went to had a few ok looking ones of that brand. Didnt catch the prices tho.
Any cheap but good brands I should look for?
I'll probably want to get it resprayed too, anyone taken a bike to a paint shop before?

Are you looking for a freestyle bike or race bike? most shops in australia only stock GT, redline and mongoose. GT have always built good race bikes but their freestyle bikes have never been much chop IMO.

top line are DK bikes, haro, hoffman, freeagent, Fit, Mirra. then i would say GT and diamondback and then redline and mongoose.

i have a haro group 1a race bike and it's a great piece of machinery.........cost the earth but it's a great bike.

just make sure you get full 4130 chrome frame not high ten steel.