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I'm going to have a lot of questions for you ppl as I've recently purchased a Canon 400D with the 18-55 kit lens. I thought it would be better to start a new thread than to clog the "post a creative photo" thread with my questions.
Still on background blur etc
the amount of blur can be dependent on a) how close you are and b) your lens
Now the nifty-fifty is fantastic for close DOF work but not so crash hot on DOF @ a distance
ala
this is a shot taken with the 300D in AV at 1.8
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1061/1369827011_086068c550.jpg
this is a shot with the 300D in AV at 1.8
(this has also been post-processed)
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1145/1390230009_ca1476eedc.jpg
So for the kit lens I have I will need to be very close to the object for it to be effective?
This seems to have worked as I wanted it but anything further away wouldn't blur as well.
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/6684/img0549satdx7.th.jpg (http://img256.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0549satdx7.jpg)
As I'm still paying off the camera for a couple more weeks, I need to do the best I can using only this lens. Thanks for your help so far :)
G8CRSHR
17-Sep-07, 12:42pm
another noobie signing in here. ive got a 400D with the 18-55 kit lens, and a nifty fifty.
nettsu- what made you shoot those in AV? at the moment ive only been shooting in M, sometimes in P to see what settings the camera would choose. i want to learn to look at something, and say ok this would be best to shoot in AV, TV, etc. Or can the same shot be taken in M, its just that theres more variables to get right..?
Spectrum
17-Sep-07, 12:52pm
I'm going to have a lot of questions for you ppl as I've recently purchased a Canon 400D with the 18-55 kit lens. I thought it would be better to start a new thread than to clog the "post a creative photo" thread with my questions.
Still on background blur etc
So for the kit lens I have I will need to be very close to the object for it to be effective?
This seems to have worked as I wanted it but anything further away wouldn't blur as well.
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/6684/img0549satdx7.th.jpg (http://img256.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0549satdx7.jpg)
There's only 4 ways to achieve background blur from within the camera:
1) Large aperture (small f/stop value)
2) Focus up-close to force the background out of focus (which typically means getting in close to the subject).
3) Use the telephoto end (rather than the wide end) of the zoom range.
3) Have the subject remain still while the background moves (eg. shooting a cyclist while the camera pans, or if in a dimly lit location, use a flash to "freeze" the subject.)
The first three will be the most relevent for what you're wishing to achieve.
Harv3y - you don't need to be close (except with the 50mm)
the kit lens should give you an aperture of about 4.5 - which is what I think mine is set on...
if you want to get blur to the degree that I do - a 50mm lens is a good investment (I need to keep weaning myself off my 50mm - I really do)
the kit lens is capable of some good stuff too:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1299/1069178049_51c8fe85e3.jpg
Thats in AV @ 4.5 I think
its at the lowest setting that the kit lens will go to for aperture priority
nettsu- what made you shoot those in AV? at the moment ive only been shooting in M, sometimes in P to see what settings the camera would choose. i want to learn to look at something, and say ok this would be best to shoot in AV, TV, etc. Or can the same shot be taken in M, its just that theres more variables to get right..?
to be honest laziness :lol:
because my camera is mostly in AV - i'm too lazy to change the mode
generally I will use TV - if the light is a little too dark or I want long exposures
I keep getting weird looks from the BF whenever he grabs my camera because I leave it in AV (but thats also because I'm bokeh obsessed - bokeh is the japanese term for the background blur - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bokeh)
there's actually a piece of advice that phunkdust gave me when I first went SLR
choose a mode
say AV or TV
and take a shot
move up a stop
take a shot
move up a stop
take a shot
until you cover the whole range and see what you get
now if you do this with TV during the day you will generally get a lot of white screens ;)
I should play more with my zoom lens to see if I can get bokeh effects with it
also don't underestimate the auto programs on the camera - there are times when I just default to the auto-programs on the camera, rather than trying to get the aperture and shutter priorities sorted out.
Spectrum
17-Sep-07, 01:08pm
another noobie signing in here. ive got a 400D with the 18-55 kit lens, and a nifty fifty.
nettsu- what made you shoot those in AV? at the moment ive only been shooting in M, sometimes in P to see what settings the camera would choose. i want to learn to look at something, and say ok this would be best to shoot in AV, TV, etc. Or can the same shot be taken in M, its just that theres more variables to get right..?
My thoughts are:
1) Understand that there are only two parameters: aperture and shutter speed, and it's the ratio of the two that makes up the perfect exposure. Learn how each paramter affects the resulting photo, and understand that as one goes up, the other comes down, and vice versa. Think of it as a see-saw with aperture and shutter at both ends.
2) M = Av = Tv. The only difference is the speed at which you can achieve the desired exposure, and the your priority (aperture or shutter). Manual is slow as you must manually adjust *both* aperture and shutter to achive the ideal exposure via the light meter in the camera as a guide (and you're own skill in anticipating when the light meter will get it wrong).
Av and Tv is arguably quicker as you only choose one paramater (aperture *or* shutter) and the camera choose the other based in the light metering. So the question you ask yourself, am I concerned more by depth of field (ie. Av for aperture) or capturing motion (ie. Tv for shutter).
3) P = idiot-proof mode. The camera will aim for the greatest depth of field (small aperture, large value) it can achieve while still maintaining a shutter speed 'safe' enough for handheld photography.
Given the same lighting conditions, if your camera tells you a certain exposure settings in P, the same aperture setting dialed into Av will yield the same shutter speed. And vice versa dialing in the same shutter speed into Tv mode with respect to the aperture it suggests. In other words, it's not going to tell you anything more than is already available to you in Av and Tv modes.
Again consider, "am I concerned more by depth of field (ie. Av for aperture) or capturing motion (ie. Tv for shutter)", and bear in mind of "safe" shutter speeds if you're not using a tripod or your subject is moving.
There's only 4 ways to achieve background blur from within the camera:
3) Use the telephoto end (rather than the wide end) of the zoom range.
Is the telelphoto end when it's zoomed in or out :?
I think I'll try shooting on AV for a while nets as I really like this 'bokeh' you speak of heheh
Spectrum
17-Sep-07, 04:10pm
Is the telelphoto end when it's zoomed in or out :?
I think I'll try shooting on AV for a while nets as I really like this 'bokeh' you speak of heheh
Zoomed in = to enlarge the scene, to fit less in the frame, distance objects appear closer = telephoto.
Zoomed out = to shrink the scene, to fit more in the frame, distance objects appear further away = wide-angle.
The problem with thinking "zoom" is not all lenses feature "zoom" yet all lenses find themselves somewhere on the road between wide and tele.
I also often shoot in Av, adjusting aperture to taste (from shallow bokeh effects to really sharp foreground-to-distance depth of field effects). It's perfect when I want to "think" aperture, however, I must still review the shutter, and it's not going to pull out some exposure aperture/shutter ratio that couldn't be achived via Tv, M or even P for that matter.
I've seen a few pics lately on forums that have been PP'd by other members and the one effect I'm in love with is 'skin smoothing'. I'm not sure if that's the correct term but it's what they're calling it lol My bf bought me a book, "Photoshop CS2 and digital photography for dummies' so hopefully I'll find out how to do what's displayed in the shots below. I think it looks amazing.
(how do I post images linked from another forum?)
http://www.users.on.net/~jkriz/light4.jpg
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z302/stenchlord/edit2.jpg
Spectrum
17-Sep-07, 04:53pm
(how do I post images linked from another forum?)
image address
http://www.users.on.net/~jkriz/light4.jpg
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z302/stenchlord/edit2.jpg
I'll leave it to the experts to talk you (and me) through the PS procedure. ;)
legal-affairs
17-Sep-07, 05:14pm
My thoughts are:
All very useful and heartily (and humbly) endorsed by me.
I nearly alwasy shoot aperture priority because in most cases I'm more concerned with the effect of depth of field on the shot than I am with shutter speed. The exception is when I am shooting moving objects and I neeed a fast shutter speed to stop the motion (or where I am using a long lens hand-held and need a short exposure to neutralise camera shake.)
With the 30D, I'm finding that when you want to over-ride the AE because it isn't going to give you the right result (which is where you would want manual) irt is simpler to find your exposure with Av and then dial-in some under or over expose rather than using manual.
My thoughts are:
1) Understand that there are only two parameters: aperture and shutter speed, and it's the ratio of the two that makes up the perfect exposure. Learn how each paramter affects the resulting photo, and understand that as one goes up, the other comes down, and vice versa. Think of it as a see-saw with aperture and shutter at both ends.
Three. You need to remember your ISO, which is your light sensitivity. Your ISO relates directly to your image quality, as the higher your ISO (the more sensitive to light, so the faster you can shoot) the noisier your photo, and so the lower the image quality.
On Tv vs Av, unless I'm shooting sports I would never shoot in Tv. I want to know how deep my field of focus will be, I don't want the camera controlling that. This is mostly irrelevant though, as I nearly always shoot in M as I usually know how I want to shoot it. I watch the exposure meter in the eyepiece to make sure I'm exposing it how I want (over, under or on) and then if it's not what I wanted then I'll shoot it again. With practice I know that I have to shoot about half a stop slower than looks good on the LCD on my camera.
M is particularly important for me for gig shooting, as my camera can't meter gigs for crap so I shoot fully manual there then recover in PP
If someone wants to find a basic explanation on skin smoothing techniques that would be awesome, I could use that for certain!!! :zabiela:
G8CRSHR
17-Sep-07, 05:58pm
cool, thanks for the help everyone. definately understand it all better now.
just on iso, say if you had a tripod and time was no object, would you always shoot in the lowest iso??
Spectrum
17-Sep-07, 08:21pm
Three. You need to remember your ISO, which is your light sensitivity. Your ISO relates directly to your image quality, as the higher your ISO (the more sensitive to light, so the faster you can shoot) the noisier your photo, and so the lower the image quality.
Ah yes, ISO, of course. :)
Traditionally (and I still shoot film), it's not something one considers mid-roll so to speak (although I've my camera configured to leave the film leader out upon rewind, allowing for mid-roll film - and therefore ISO - changes if desired).
Well I certainly hope n00bs aren't tweaking the ISO up/down while getting to grips with aperture/shutter. Work out their ratio first.
G8CRSHR
17-Sep-07, 10:28pm
^ ive done it a couple times, but only because there was low light and i dont have a tripod yet.
harvey- heres a site that i found useful, http://www.photozone.de/3Technology/demos/DOFbutton.htm# do you use the depth of field preview button? ive been taking a pic, looking at it on the screen, seeing that i had the wrong setting, then adjusting and doing it again. :rainman: im gona use the preview button now..
next topic.. could someone pls explain how you reverse mount a lens to take macro pics. much appreciated.
^^ Yeah G8CRSHR it helped me a lot acutually
http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/6417/12907029xy2.th.jpg (http://img225.imageshack.us/my.php?image=12907029xy2.jpg)
http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/5637/12907030bp8.th.jpg (http://img225.imageshack.us/my.php?image=12907030bp8.jpg)
made things much easier!
:slap: horizon in the middle :slap:
harvey- heres a site that i found useful, http://www.photozone.de/3Technology/demos/DOFbutton.htm# do you use the depth of field preview button? ive been taking a pic, looking at it on the screen, seeing that i had the wrong setting, then adjusting and doing it again. :rainman: im gona use the preview button now..
How good are the tutorials that have rollover buttons for different settings! More of those if you know of any :thumb:
As for the reverse mount I've seen photos of lenses sticky-taped on backwards (I'm not sure if that was a joke or not tho...) or I heard there is a ring you can buy which will affix the lens to the body :thumb:
The Brain
18-Sep-07, 11:20am
OK. Here's another noob question:
My 350D has another setting.. A-Dep or something..
What does that do!?
(The manual is in Japanese, and I can't be bothered trying to translate it).
From: http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/EXT/EXTP.HTM
The Automatic Depth-of-Field mode (A-DEP) uses all seven autofocus zones to determine the depth of field in the active subject area. Once it has determined the range of focusing distances present across the seven zones, it automatically computes the combination of aperture and shutter speed needed to render the nearest and furthest points in sharp focus. This is a remarkably useful feature, even for professional photographers. In many situations, you want to keep several subjects in focus, while at the same time trying for the highest shutter speed (largest aperture) that will permit that. In practice, faced with such situations, I've usually resorted to just picking the smallest aperture feasible and hoping for the best. With the 350D's A-DEP mode, the camera takes the guesswork out of this process and gives you the fastest shutter speed it can manage while still keeping things in focus
next topic.. could someone pls explain how you reverse mount a lens to take macro pics. much appreciated.
you can either get a reverse mount
or alternatively and the less messy option
focus
remove the lens
flip
hold lens in reversed
move in
click
(its not the easiest way to do it)
but it has given me some amazing shots
this is with the 50mm flipped
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1349/595807399_205a791d0b.jpg
TheBrain
A-Dep is something unique to canon
some guff
You'll find the 'normal' exposure settings in this zone like: P (Automatic shutter speed and aperture), Av (Aperture Priority), S (Shutter Priority), M (Manual) and A-Dep. This latter setting is unique for Canon. You focus on two points and the camera chooses the correct aperture and focus point. In creative zone the menu is fully accessible and you can work with all types of file formats. I prefer the P-mode to the green zone. But to be honest, mostly I use the Av mode.
The Brain
18-Sep-07, 11:39am
OoooOoh.
It's Canon trickery!
OoooOoh.
It's Canon trickery!
:lol:
yes yes it is o_O
*thread derail*
I think my favourite bit of trickery is the Pentax TAv mode where you manually set the aperture and shutter, then it adjusts the ISO accordingly.
Do not discuss ;)
*thread re-rail*
G8CRSHR
15-Oct-07, 03:37pm
so i got a voucher for a heap of prints when i bought my camera but havn't used any yet, i have a few queries. the prints are 4x6" yeh? if i cropped a pic down to, say, 4x4" does it still print? then i can just trim off the blank 2" excess off later.
Indeed you can, just make sure that you edit them properly on the machine (I assume it's for Teds or similar) and then you can get out your scalpel and cut away to your heart's content :D
i just bought this
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=140174849380&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=004
fingers crossed it comes through ok.
If it does, that's a steal. Ted's are selling them sans card for $1800, so it's a killer price! Fingers crossed it's not a rip!
Patopeaking
08-Nov-07, 10:54am
that is an awesome price
ac1d3o3
22-Nov-07, 09:39pm
is the niftyfifty lens the canon 50mm lens w/ no zoom?
great for portraits and bokeh?
can be found for around $150?
is the niftyfifty lens the canon 50mm lens w/ no zoom?
great for portraits and bokeh?
can be found for around $150?
That's the one. It's a prime, and so by definition has no zoom. Otherwise it would be a 50-<something> zoom lens.
combfilter
28-Jan-08, 12:29am
arne did that camera come through ok?
i thought i might pick one up off ebay as well.
I have a powershot G9 and am thinking, having read this thread...
To acheive the fine focus on a particular subject (and removing focus from everything else), I really need a lens so I can adjust my focal length and then use the lens/manual focus to pin point my subject (or part of it)?
Or should I get off the forum and play around with it a bit?
Just tell me if I need a lens! :)
The G9 does nt have interchangeable lenses as far as I know, so this should not be an issue. It *does* have a manual focus mode, so use that. Also, lower your aperture (if you're shooting wide you can shoot at f/2.8 and this will isolate things better) and get in close. These will help you a lot.
Demo of G9's Depth of Field (DoF) capabilities:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2298/2141830139_2c78e12d89.jpg
ac1d3o3
04-Mar-08, 06:12pm
I have that remote! Its a samsung one aint it?!
I dunno, it's not my photo (I don't own a G9). It was just the first one on flickr to illustrate the point.
Yeah, while this is the noobs corner and I should be *listening* that pic looks like someone has switched to macro mode, turned off the flash and used auto focus...
...macro mode is really easy to refine the sharpness of your focus on the subject, I find.
...it for a subject thats 2m away that I cant do it so easily
Will use the manual function.
Oh and yeah, you can change lenses on the G9.
you can on the G9 yes
also maybe try using AV if your camera has it
its normally what forces the aperture to open wider on a DSLR (and to be honest its the mode my camera really moves from)
macro mode on cameraphones or P&S come close
but a G9 should go a little further than a P&S ;)
Spectrum
04-Mar-08, 09:30pm
...macro mode is really easy to refine the sharpness of your focus on the subject, I find.
True, but macro mode itself *doesn't* throw the background (and foreground) out of focus, it just allows the lens to have a small lens-to-subject focus distance.
There are four ways to increase the blur (bokeh) factor:
- Increase the size of the aperture (low f/stop value).
- Get up close to your subject to focus, thereby defocusing on the background.
- Use the long end of your zoom (not wide angle).
- Photoshop
Oh and yeah, you can change lenses on the G9.
http://www.letsgodigital.org/images/artikelen/6/canon-g9.jpg
How? :)
The Brain
04-Mar-08, 09:44pm
There are lens attachments for the G9...
I think that may be causing some confusion.
charged angel
06-Mar-08, 10:18am
Howdy... Long time lurker first time poster in the Photography forums....
This is remarkably interesting and helpful!!
For someone like me who uses photography in my regular job ( real estate pics / marketing ) and then also on freelance jobs ( social photographer / event photography ) I really know diddly-squat apart from shoot and snap ... / ofcourse a little more than that, but just a little :P! I had enrolled in a couple tafecourses for DSLR photographers but they always get canned :(
I have a Canon 350D at home and the 300D at the office...but am looking at purchasing something new!! Was thinking a 450D ( may aswell get the newest on the market ), with a decent lense for every day use. Or just on a quick search, this Canon EOS450D Stabiliser Zoom Twin Kit ( With Canon EFS 18-55mm Image Stabiliser Zoom and Canon EFS 55-250mm Image Stabiliser Zoom Kit .... from http://www.tedscamerahouse.com.au/ )
If this is all i am to buy for a while I definitely want something suitable for your every day potraits as well as the long shot when you get stuck at the back of a crowd and have to zoom for a chance snap of the band! hehe
Any thoughts, sounds decent? I will require a flash kit as 80% of my photos occur inside or at night.. say the Speedlite 430EX. Looks ok to me? Yes will have to learn about the settings on the flash too haha, that's what manuals are for :)
Also - now onto some questions, when there is a great dirty white blur from outside light when snapping from a dimmer lit area ( say from inside a house looking out a widnow / glass door ) .. apart from turning the flash off and shooting whilst not reflecting more light or photoshoping, any tips on reducing the white blur.... ?
I have learnt a lot readining this thread, so, thanks guys and girls :)
xox
^^ the white blur you speak of is overexposed areas. unfortunately, if youre in a dark room and theres a bright window, unless you expose for the ambient light (ie coming in the window) and then match the exposure of them room with flash... youre going to have that problem. unless ofcourse you can close the curtain or wait until the sun moves ;D
charged angel
06-Mar-08, 11:30am
:lol: thanks for the tip rancho ;) My office has this thing about gorgeous views outside of perfect unblurred windows that professional photographers seem to manage. But i just cant get it...
chargedangel - does your agency use professional photographers for houses for sale? (forgive me if this seems rude but I'm guessing you do the rental photography)
Maybe see if you can spend some time with the photographers that do the houses for sale - see if you can go for a ride-on or something?
I think its recommended that homs are done at dusk as it allows for longer exposures (I'd say about the 1-2 second mark) and I've also seen some amazing lighting rigs for taking exterior shots (this of course doesn't apply if you have a breathtaking view)
charged angel
06-Mar-08, 12:15pm
chargedangel - does your agency use professional photographers for houses for sale? (forgive me if this seems rude but I'm guessing you do the rental photography)
Maybe see if you can spend some time with the photographers that do the houses for sale - see if you can go for a ride-on or something?
I think its recommended that homs are done at dusk as it allows for longer exposures (I'd say about the 1-2 second mark) and I've also seen some amazing lighting rigs for taking exterior shots (this of course doesn't apply if you have a breathtaking view)
They sometimes use professionals as people in my area own McMansions ( not me tho lol ) but that is why i was hired ( i am actually in sales ;) ) .. so MAYBE i will learn to do it and they can save money :)
I have tagged along to a few photoshoots and they have crazy equipment. This pole for the camera to get high shots ( looks great and the impression is that of a much larger property ) and a hand held remote to take the shot.. which then feeds down to this mini digital box with the image screen. Agreed Dusk is great, but they also have twin speedlites that are infrared and speak to each other -- so there is the front on flash and the remote one held by another person or perched.
I am trying to find out what they are without prying LOL
dj_dos18
06-Mar-08, 05:12pm
can you get a fish eye lens for a canon 950 ixus?
dj_dos18
06-Mar-08, 05:12pm
ixus 950is actually?
can you get a fish eye lens for a canon 950 ixus?
no
the ixus's have fixed lenses
G8CRSHR
07-Mar-08, 06:24pm
if your desperate, you could make a little DIY fish eye using a door peep hole thing. costs peanuts, so you may as well give it a go.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/119/250475325_39d13e50cd.jpg
the_pezman
07-Mar-08, 06:37pm
^^ghetto
i like it
The Brain
07-Mar-08, 10:48pm
I did that a while back.. kinda..
I just held the camera up to my door.. haha
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/146/380302320_5597648137.jpg
kick off the new page with an old trick to help reduce camera shake
http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1041948/1_image_stabilizer_for_any_camera_lose_the_tripod/
edit damnit not new page lol
Scootie
17-Mar-08, 09:46am
My office has this thing about gorgeous views outside of perfect unblurred windows that professional photographers seem to manage. But i just cant get it...
There's a couple of ways tyo acheive this.
The 'photographic' method is to get the interior light to match the exterior light so the same exposure will get both. This is acheived best by using off camera flash to increase the amount of light in the room so it's as bright as the light outside.
There's a heap of info on www.strobist.com on how to do this on the cheap, but if you're using a hand-held Ixus camera, then you'd probably be looking at some basic slave flashes and a couple of stands/clamps to put them on. the new hi tech methods for doing this involve infra red or radio based controllers, but that can get expensive, the cheap way is a little optical slave trigger you plug into the flash that sees your Ixus's internal flash and then triggers the external flash too.
You wset all the flashes to manual, take a shot, then look at the shot on your camera and see if you need more or less flash power, adjust, shoot, look, adjust, etc
With practice you can get pretty quick at it.
Once you're good at it it'll take you 10-15 minutes to set up the shot, and 0 time post processing
The 'non photographic' way (meaning, not done in the camera) is to take two shots, one exposed right for the inside (ugly white blur in the window) and one exposed for the outside (lovely scene outside, dark and barely visible inside) and use photoshop to layer them together. The trick is to get the shots pretty close to each other, then use the panorama software built into photoshop to have it align your two shots together and make the overlay all lined up. Will also take a little practice but you'll pick it up.
Once you're good at it it'll take you 1-2 minutes to get the shot and 5 minutes in Photoshop afterwards.
The photographci method will look better, and is what your big time professional is doing, but frankly, the photoshop method will look good enough and is easier as you don't have to carry around all this gear and set it up, and can swing through a property in under 15 minutes and get all the shots you need for each room, then decide later on which ones you think are worth the effort in photoshop.
I am trying to find out what they are without prying LOL
as we just recieved the proofs for our house
you know what
he showed up with a camera with a flash and a tripod
that was it
and the photos look amazing
(that would also be the wide-angle lens)
we were chatting away while he was doing the shoot and he prescribes to the theory that simple is generally the best maybe there is something in that :thumb:
bLaCk RoSe
05-May-08, 05:24pm
I have a Canon 350D at home and the 300D at the office...but am looking at purchasing something new!! Was thinking a 450D ( may aswell get the newest on the market ), with a decent lense for every day use. Or just on a quick search, this Canon EOS450D Stabiliser Zoom Twin Kit ( With Canon EFS 18-55mm Image Stabiliser Zoom and Canon EFS 55-250mm Image Stabiliser Zoom Kit .... from http://www.tedscamerahouse.com.au/ )
I'm a DSLR noobie, so after mastering my point and shoots and wanting to be able to do more with my photography, I've just bought a canon 450D and a Tamron 18-250 lens online for about $1,700. Just waiting for them to get delivered, hopefully in the next few days.
I was going to get the standard canon twin lens kit, but after talking with some of my photographer friends they highly recomended getting 1 all purpose lens, rather then having to change lenses all the time etc. One of my friends has a range of lenses has just bought the tamron 18-250 and she thinks its the best thing since sliced bread. I think I might also invest in a nifty fifty soon too.
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