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levan-style headphones

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i don't need to tilt my head to use my headphones they sit between my head and my sholder or i hold them up, otherwise as i play min 16hours every week i wouldn't use them as my neck would be stuffed!

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Quote:

Originally Posted by kieren

For me it suits the way i play. I mix without my headphones so all i use them for is cueing and it is easer than putting my HD25's on and off my head!

Ah, so you are just finding the point in the track to drop, and not actually beatmatching and having to continually monitor the sync, yes?

Is that right?

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My guess is that he does beatmatch, and does the basic match and queue through the headphone to ear, but monitors/holds the mix through the foldback only.
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Quote:

Originally Posted by Citizen

Excuse my ignorance, but what is the actual advantage of such "lollipop" style headphones?!

Keeping your hair in place

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Originally Posted by The Good Doctor

"No, I'm not letting you use my headphones, just cause you've got a USB stick full of MP3's in your pocket".

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Citizen

Excuse my ignorance, but what is the actual advantage of such "lollipop" style headphones?!

looking like a fucking sick ****.

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Originally Posted by kzzy View Post

The music that I push in my opinion is probably a bit too mature for someone who listens to "Trance" but hey, we all have to start somewhere?

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Here's more info for any who may be interested in these types of devices:

My old CueStick (lollipop, stick, monophone, etc.) was worn out, so I just got done making a couple of new ones. Thought some of you who use this type of conversion might dig the final results.

Cup: Sony MDR-V700
Driver: 50mm, 5,000mW, 24Ohm
Grip: 160mm long x 35mm diameter steel with 22.5º bend, MDCC foam
Switch: Switchcraft 3-position
Socket: Switchcraft XLR
Jacks: Neutrik 90º XLR and 90º TRS
Cable: Canare Star Quad 21AWG
LED: 5mm SuperBright
Resistors: 24Ohm x 2


















DIY instructions for those who may want to tackle project themselves:


Parts
Cup: Sony MDR-V700 or whatever make/model you desire. The MDR-V700 is one of the best headphones for this type of modification because it is a uni-directional design.
Grip: .875"-1" diameter steel or aluminum pipe cut to whatever length you desire. If you want a curve you will need to have the pipe properly bent to whatever angle(s) you desire.
Grip Covering: Medium-density closed-cell foam cut approximately .5" longer than whatever total length the pipe is and in whatever color you desire. For a professional cosmetic touch you may wish to have the ends of the foam re-shaped with a nice rounded contour along outside edge.
Micro-switch: Switchcraft 56313L2. NOTE: A switch isn't required, but I added one so I can toggle between left, right, and left+right modes. This is so I can verify both left and right channels independently when setting up at a gig in case the venue's mixer doesn't happen to have a balance control or separate left/right level indicators.
Male XLR Socket: Switchcraft B3M (nickel finish), or B3MB (black finish)
Female XLR Plug: Neutrik NC3FXX (nickel finish), or NC3FXX-B (black finish), or NC3FRX (90º nickel finish), or NC3FRX-B (90º black finish)
Male .25" 3-pole TRS Plug: Neutrik NP3X (nickel finish), or NP3X-B (black finish), or NP3RX (90º nickel finish), or NP3RX-B (90º black finish)
Cable: Canare Star Quad Microphone 21AWG cut to whatever length you desire and in whatever color you desire (black, white, grey, red, blue, orange, green, yellow, purple, or brown)
LED: 5mm SuperBright with mounting bezel in whatever color you desire (white, blue, green, aqua, red, yellow, orange, or violet). NOTE: A LED isn't required, but I added one so I can have a quick visual reference that both left and right channels are being fed into headphone.
Resistors: 24Ohm, .5W (X2). This specification is for the MDR-V700. If you choose another headphone you will need to verify the impedance and wattage of that particular driver and use the appropriate resistors.

Construction
Carefully disassemble standard headphone (or in the case of the MDR-V700 it will most likely conveniently already be disassembled for you - lol). Carefully cut factory leads as long as possible and detach the earcups from the headband.

If you are going to add the optional LED then mount it to the back opening the cup and drilling .25" hole where you want it on the back of the cup and securing it with the snap-in mounting bezel. Carefully solder the LED's +lead to the driver's +terminal and the -lead to the -terminal. Be sure to insulate both leads from each other and any other conductive areas inside cup.

Extend the two leads about 3" longer than the total length of the pipe grip by carefully soldering extensions. Be sure to apply heat shrink at solder joints and wrap leads in protective casing such as TechFlex.

Depending on make/model of headphone, you will need to fabricate a mounting method for securing the cup's bracket to the pipe. How to do this should become apparent once you have the two pieces in front of you, but with the MDR-V700 I simply used a drill press to bore a hole directly through the center of pipe where it aligns with the cup bracket when inserted and attached it with a flush mounted machine bolt/nut.

Feed leads down through center of pipe so they exit at bottom.

Sum the +left and +right leads by connecting and soldering them together with the two resistors at one end only.

Connect the ground lead to the XLR socket's pin #1.

Connect the +left lead to the XLR socket's pin #2.

Connect the +right lead to the XLR socket's pin #3.

At this point test everything by using multimeter and a test audio source. If all checks good, move on.

Be sure to apply heat shrink at all solder joints and wrap leads in protective casing such as TechFlex.

Slide excess length of leads up into pipe and mount XLR socket to end of pipe by drilling a hole in the center of pipe where it meets the center of socket case and secure with a flush mounted set screw.

Apply a few drops of dishwashing liquid to outside of pipe and cover entire surface by smearing it around. Quickly apply small amount of water to inside of foam grip carefully slide all the way onto pipe until bottom end meets flush along edge of XLR socket's mounting flange. Wipe off excess dish washing liquid and water and let air dry.

Make the connecting cable by soldering and attaching the chosen XLR and TRS plugs to desired length of microphone cable.

Plug in and enjoy.





The idea behind a cuestick is just simply that: to "cue" - not to monitor the mix. That's what monitors are for. With proper monitors, you just cue up your track and do all the monitoring of the mix (or blending) by listening/feeling the monitors and not being isolated from the dancefloor inside headphones. IMO it's a much more accurate way of mixing because it really keeps you connected to what's actually happening on the main system/dancefloor during the mix and headphones tend to lie about that. Proper monitors tell the truth every time. The key here is though that you must use proper monitors. Sadly though, many so called "dance music" venues that have DJ booths don't have proper monitors and whenever faced with those circumstances I use traditional stereo headphones (MDR-7506 specifically), but whenever proper monitors are available, I always choose a proper cuestick. One of the keys to using a cuestick though is that you really need to know your tracks inside and out. When you know your material, there is no need to waste time futzing around inside headphones familiarizing yourself with a track, or trying to determine if the track your cueing is something want to play or not. If you are prepared to DJ and know your material, none of this is an issue.


Advantages:

- Lighter weight

- More compact for traveling in gear pack

- More durable

- Easier to get away from (ie: neck not strapped in and tethered to a regular headphone band)

- Un-isolated cueing of tracks made easy

- Interchangeable high-quality connection cable

Hope this helps. Any questions, just ask and I'll try to answer.

Last edited by Soulsonica: 06-Jan-09 at 02:02am

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very nice work Soulsonica, is the one with the 90deg XLR yours and is it easer to play with?

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ferretrock

My guess is that he does beatmatch, and does the basic match and queue through the headphone to ear, but monitors/holds the mix through the foldback only.

Exactly, i like to hear the mix in the system. remember i got most of my habits in the 80's when i used to use half a old broken sony headphone i stole off my dad.
I have tryed mixing in my headphones but i just can't do it, in some venues this means i just can't mix so i wouldn't recomend any young DJ's do do it my way It was a lot easer back when Clubs in Melbourne had properly designed Sound Systems of cause!

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Quote:

Originally Posted by kieren

very nice work Soulsonica, is the one with the 90deg XLR yours and is it easer to play with?

Kieren.

Hi Kieren - Thanks. Glad you dig. Yes, these are all mine and yes I prefer the 90º plug. The straight works fine, but as you can see the 90º drops the cable downward perfectly when in use. Here's a few shots of my CueStick in action using the 90º (first one looks like I'm caught in a Star Trek transporter or something). I sometimes use the straight version if I need to have a microphone with me at a gig and I only want to carry just one cable (it's interchangeable between the cuestick and mic).





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cheers, i'll have to make a 90deg for mine and see how i like it!

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Bracko

actually i find it better. there's more isolation of the monitor sound if you get proper canel in ear plugs.

Totally what i would have thought.
Would it be safe to say that in ear headphones would be safer for your ears too? Something like there being less outside noise getting in, so you wouldn't need the volume as high...
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Quote:

Originally Posted by Soulsonica



r.

due, who made that console for you, was it in Oz? its amazing, id love one for my rane rotary!
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First Soulsonica wins the DJ Setup thread, now this one!

Nice work.
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Quote:

Originally Posted by kieren

cheers, i'll have to make a 90deg for mine and see how i like it!

Kieren.

Cool. Let me know how you like it. I think the 90º is a minor improvement while using it, not a big deal though.
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Quote:

Originally Posted by Underdog

due, who made that console for you, was it in Oz? its amazing, id love one for my rane rotary!

Glad you dig. I designed it and fabricated with one other. I am in the US.

If you dig it enough to want to tackle constructing one yourself, just let me know and I'd be happy to share the plan with you.

PS: Kudos on your rotary Rane Empath. It is without a doubt my absolute favorite mixer.
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Quote:

Originally Posted by eides

First Soulsonica wins the DJ Setup thread, now this one!

Nice work.

Haha, I didn't know it was a competition. I found this board while searching for some other stuff and spotted a couple of threads I though I could contribute to and share ideas. Glad you dig ;-)
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Quote:

Originally Posted by Soulsonica

Glad you dig. I designed it and fabricated with one other. I am in the US.

If you dig it enough to want to tackle constructing one yourself, just let me know and I'd be happy to share the plan with you.

PS: Kudos on your rotary Rane Empath. It is without a doubt my absolute favorite mixer.

ive actually got a Rane MP2016 plus the XP2016 - bought it for a song on e-bay via the states!

can your design be changed to accomodate a 19" mixer like that?
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just widen the mixer gap to 490mm to accommodate the rack strip, you could leave the rest the same!

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Underdog

ive actually got a Rane MP2016 plus the XP2016 - bought it for a song on e-bay via the states! can your design be changed to accomodate a 19" mixer like that?


Quote:

Originally Posted by kieren

just widen the mixer gap to 490mm to accommodate the rack strip, you could leave the rest the same!

Well, kind of. Yes, you would need to widen the center area to fit the MP/XP2016, but since that mixer/processor is a lot deeper than an Empath, and due to the fact that all the cabling exits out the bottom of it's chassis, you would also need to modify more of the the plans accordingly (specifically the center hidden storage area).

Something else for you to consider should you take on a project like this for yourself: If you look closer at the center section where the Empath is, you will see that it's actually mounted to a flush removable panel. I designed it this way for not only access and aesthetic purposes, but also for flexibility should I ever need/want to change mixers in the future. As far as dimensions go, you should go with whatever works best for your particular setup and give plenty of thought to any possible future component needs. If it's smartly planned out, you can have a highly flexible design that will adapt to any equipment changes that may occur. For my own situation, I know that I will always have a pair of Technics TTs and thankfully these never change dimensions, so that part was easy. I'll also never use CDs so that's a non-issue (all my digital needs are taken care of via Rane Serato SL and the interface is hidden inside the console). My mixer of choice is a Rane Empath (rotary) and I don't foresee ever changing it, but I suppose it could happen if something should ever come along that peaks my interest (highly doubt it though because IMO the Empath is already 99% the perfect mixer for me and me needs). Anyway, because I realize the mixer could change, I allowed plenty of space to accommodate up to a 12"-14" mixer chassis (the Empath is a 10" chassis). This was accomplished by making the panel the mixer is flushed in to removable. If I ever do want change mixers all I need to do is fabricate another blank panel, cut the appropriate hole in it for whatever mixer is going in, and simply drop it into the recessed area centered on top of the work surface. There are also a couple extra inches of depth inside the top section incase another mixer happens to be taller so it will properly fit. The flush removable panel also allows handy access to the wire management channel and to the bottom of each TT should I ever need to lift one out for servicing.

Hope this helps.

Last edited by Soulsonica: 07-Jan-09 at 01:25am

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Quote:

Originally Posted by miutante

you worried about your hair vi

i use a telephone sometimes. whenever i break my headphones the telephone comes out. all you need do is clip the end off and solder a stereo jack on. it's indesctructable.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Jumpy1

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This (telephone handset conversions) has been done before by several DJs (including myself), but I don't recommend it for a several reasons. 1) The output of the driver is very limited due to size restrictions inside the cup so it doesn't produce near the volume of a larger, more robust driver typically found in a quality headphone. 2) The hard plastic material, while very durable, also tends to become somewhat slippery and hard to comfortably hold onto in hot/sweaty environments. 3) Due to their shape/material, they have a hard time staying put when placed down on smooth surfaces is and you'll most likely find yourself picking it up off the floor a lot (at least I did).

Anyway, yeah, I guess a telephone handset could be thought of as kind of a novelty, IMO they're not very practical for reasons stated.

Last edited by Soulsonica: 08-Jan-09 at 03:41am

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Hey guys - Have had a few inquiries about how to secure the XLR jack to the grip/handle, so here it goes:

I mount the XLR jack to the bottom end of the handle by drilling a hole precisely where the jack's machine screw is positioned when the jack is fully inserted into the handle. After all the internal soldering and wiring is completed, I then secure the jack to the handle with a very small set screw and a dab of Loctite. Then the handle is fully covered with the foam grip material.

The metal tube that makes the handle I bought from Home Depot and could probably be bought from any hardware store or metal shop. I make mine from galvanized steel, not aluminum, but aluminum could be used if wanted (just make sure it's beefy enough to be durable).

The high-density foam material I use to cover the handle is the same that is used for bicycle/motorcycle grips and can usually be found at any bike/cycle shop. I buy longer lengths than what is needed and then cut them down to perfect size. Once that's done, I carefully re-shape the edge that was cut with a high speed sanding disc to give it a nice, rounded-over, finished professional look.

Hope this helps.






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i still dont get it, cos from what ive seen.....you still have to tilt your head to some extent to listen while playing with EQ's etc.
Why not just get some headphones like pioneer's HDJ-1000's and twist one side so its parallel to what your listening to on the other side and hold that to you ear (does that make sense?)

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Quote:

Originally Posted by djrandy

i still dont get it, cos from what ive seen.....you still have to tilt your head to some extent to listen while playing with EQ's etc.
Why not just get some headphones like pioneer's HDJ-1000's and twist one side so its parallel to what your listening to on the other side and hold that to you ear (does that make sense?)

Hi Randy, please re-read the underlined part in bold:


Quote:

Originally Posted by Soulsonica

The idea behind a cuestick is just simply that: to "cue" - not to monitor the mix. That's what monitors are for. With proper monitors, you just cue up your track and do all the monitoring of the mix (or blending) by listening/feeling the monitors and not being isolated from the dancefloor inside headphones. IMO it's a much more accurate way of mixing because it really keeps you connected to what's actually happening on the main system/dancefloor during the mix and headphones tend to lie about that. Proper monitors tell the truth every time. The key here is though that you must use proper monitors. Sadly though, many so called "dance music" venues that have DJ booths don't have proper monitors and whenever faced with those circumstances I use traditional stereo headphones (MDR-7506 specifically), but whenever proper monitors are available, I always choose a proper cuestick. One of the keys to using a cuestick though is that you really need to know your tracks inside and out. When you know your material, there is no need to waste time futzing around inside headphones familiarizing yourself with a track, or trying to determine if the track your cueing is something want to play or not. If you are prepared to DJ and know your material, none of this is an issue.

So you see you basically just "cue" with the cuestick, set it down, and continue all your mixing and EQing by using the monitors. Using this method doesn't require you to keep holding the cuestick. You don't have to hold it the whole time you're DJing. It's a very simple way to go about very accurate mixing, but like I said earlier, you gotta have proper monitors to go about this style of mixing.

Some of the straight handle designs like the ones pictured at top of thread do require more tilting of the head, but if the handle/grip is contoured correctly to fit the user (like the one shown above with blue cord), there is no need to tilt head very much, if any at all. With the correct bend/angle of the handle, the cuestick rides perfectly on the shoulder/chin much like a home/office telephone receiver handset and you hardly know it's there at all during use. It's extremely comfortable.

Regarding why no use headphones that have twistable cups, I can't speak for others, but personally I find them to be uncomfortable. They're heavier, there's always pressure from the tension of the headband, they're harder to get away from, etc.. There's just too much going on with them that I don't ever need or want to mess with. A cuestick is much, much simpler IMO, and again, this is all just personal preference.
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Last edited by Soulsonica: 10-Jan-09 at 12:34am

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exactly, the only time i use my HD25's is when i can't hear the room and there is no usable monitor.
My stick headphone sits very comfortably between my shoulder and my ear without having to tilt my head, actually the rubber grip sticks to my T-Shirt enough for it to sit there without my head sometimes!

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Hi mate,

Happy New Year! Lovely setup u got there!!! Well, I got a question....i m about to receive the empath rotary and i really like your setup, i was thinking something like that for my room. How did you get a haedphone jack out of the wooden construction?? This is really convenient, isn' it? Otherwise, how would anyone stick his headphone on the empath mixer? I was thinking about a hole in the wood but....this wouldn't look nice....!

Thanks in advance
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