It’s a Friday night in Brisbane and I decide to head out to check out what’s happening in the Valley. Fortitude Valley is one of those places that every city has that hasn’t had the best reputation. It’s known as Brisbane’s red light district, which is ironic, as with prostitution now legal in Queensland, not one of the city’s legal brothels actually operates in this area at all. Brunswick St is often referred to in terms of street workers, but again, I think I have only ever seen one, and that was a transvestite in black suspenders and torn stockings gyrating to a tune in her own head on the side of the road in broad daylight. For the techno worshipers, the Valley is the only place to go, with clubs like “The Beat”, “Rockafellas” downstairs and day clubs “Boom” and “Rise” for those so serious about partying on that sunrise is no deterrent. At these places, casual comfy gear or rave wear is the go, and sneakers are compulsory if you want to seriously “stomp” Brisbane-style. This involves having at least a three-metre diameter available space around you and plenty of high-energy moves including leaps and spins. For those less energetic, and if break beats and drum and bass is more your style then “The Empire” is definitely the place to go. Upstairs at “The Beat” is the original Valley gay club and was one of the busiest, jumping places on Friday night. Gays and the gay-friendly crew chatter animatedly, the dance floor is packed while the DJ pumps out fairly middle of the road dance music. Some chicks I speak to say they come here so they won’t be hit-on by guys. The bass lines from the harder techno downstairs in the main room reverberate through the floor. One thing I notice about the Valley is that most of the staff of these clubs are really friendly and approachable, there’s no hostility, power trips or egos. Even the attendant at McWhirters car park, which offers $6 all-night parking, is happy to stop for a chat with me. Sure there’s the seedy underbelly that comes with the territory of any city’s nightlife. I have seen people passing out in the street from taking too much of something or having their drinks spiked. Then there’s the ruff and rowdy crowd that hang around Brusnwick Street station, always asking for a cigarette or money, but they’re usually happy with a friendly hello. “Hey! How are you? How’s your night been?” “Awesome thanks! How about you?” It’s another Friday night in the Valley and a new adventure begins.
The Valley is also home to Brisbane’s China Town, a small block of Chinese grocers, restaurants, and banks with Chinese designs around their logos, and an impressive mall complete with Chinese pergolas, and lion statues. But this part of the Valley is all but abandoned late at night. On a Friday night, the Valley is home to the ever-growing Brisbane nightlife, a place where just about anything goes. In the last couple of years it seems to have become more mainstream with a number of drinking establishments like the “Elephant and Wheelbarrow”, “Belushi’s” and the “G.P.O.” having opened, all catering to a crowd that would normally be more home in the city. Here, the striped-shirt brigade rules supreme, and for the girls it’s minis, heels and skimpy tops. For a dress code all of its own which I have found unreasonably limiting, “The Family” offers an excellent venue with great dance music.
This is also the part of town where most of the major raves are held around every month or so, in Brisbane’s worn-out “Arena”. On a rave night the Valley comes alive with fluoro, reflective gear, fluffy leg warmers and “candy”. Although this used to be compulsory attire for places like “The Beat” downstairs in “Wreckers” room, now it seems only a few are hanging on to the candy-raver style. As the Valley has become more drinker-friendly, it is now possible to feel like a bit of an oddity as a raver in here. I can see why this is happening. Firstly, more mainstream clubbers are taking pills, and secondly, drinkers bring cash flow to clubs who are lucky to get $4 out of a raver for a bottle of water.
I would still say that the Valley is a friendly place, as is most of Brisbane. There are buskers in the mall, heaps of good places to eat and drink, trendy little boutiques, funky markets on the weekends and the only place where you can seriously party in Brisbane on the weekends. As I sit watching people and taking notes as I wander around from club to club, there’s always a new face that will come over and chat to you.
