Travel: From Hue to Ho Chi Minh City, two and a half weeks in Vietnam

ITMers Delphin and SpaceMonkey recently spent two and a half weeks travelling through Vietnam. Visiting areas like Halong Bay, Hue, Sapa, as well as renowned cities like Hanoi and Ho Chi Ming City, they collaborated to give you the lowdown on what they got up to.

Hanoi

Landing in Hanoi, the first thing we noticed was the heat.  And the humidity!  Well, they did say it was 35C when the flight was landing. 

We took a taxi to our hotel in the city’s Old Quarter.  Most of the tourists congregate in the Old Quarter, where the modern world has hardly encroached on the charming narrow streets, crammed with shops, street stalls and motorbikes (both on and off the road).  It’s a must to spend an afternoon wandering around the streets, each named after a commodity traditionally sold in that street, before settling down at one of the bia hoi (fresh beer) stalls on the sidewalk, where the local draught is only 15c a glass!

A complete contrast (but as uniquely Vietnamese) is Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum.  Visitors line up to shuffle past the preserved remains of Vietnam’s revered liberator and leader.  In the same complex there is also the Presidential Palace, Ho Chi Minh’s Stilt House (which the party will tell you he preferred over the palace), and the Ho Chi Minh Museum.  Close by is the Temple of Literature, the site of Vietnam’s first university, which was founded nearly 1000 years ago and provides a welcome oasis of tranquillity amid Hanoi’s urban bustle.

A visit to the breezy shores of Hoan Kiem Lake makes for a brief respite from the heat. Situated immediately south of the Old Quarter, you can then choose between visiting Ngoc Son Temple, which is situated on an island near the lake’s northern end, or relaxing at the café on its shores.  Also worth a visit is the Municipal Water Puppet Theatre located just across the road from the lake, which showcases a performance art unique to northern Vietnam and whose shows are comic yet graceful.

Recommended: Koto (check out http://www.streetvoices.com.au for their new address, their lease was running out when we visited) is great for a classy meal.  A grassroots project that employs former street kids, it’s well worth supporting.On the northern shore of Hoan Kiem Lake is a strip of shops selling luggage.  Very handy if you need a backpack and want to avoid the expensive Australian prices or if you just need more room for all your souvenirs.  (David took his gear over in a laundry bag and picked up a 65L pack for only $22!)

Sapa

Sapa is a former French hill station located in the mountainous region near the Chinese border.  The main attraction of the area is hiking and the opportunity to meet the hill tribes, plus the relief from Hanoi’s heat and humidity.  Reached by taking the overnight train from Hanoi to Lao Cai followed by a short but spectacular bus trip, it’s possible to either visit independently or book on one of the many organised trips.  We elected to do the latter, in order to do a homestay in a local village.

Upon our arrival in Sapa we met our guide, Chau, who is a member of the Black H’mong tribe.  Soon we were being driven in a jeep on a rough landslide prone road to a spot a few kilometres out of town.  From here we continued on foot, balancing on the edges of rice paddies and stepping on stones across rivers, until we made a final steep descent into Ban Ho, the village where we were to stay.

Our home for the night was to be a multilevel bamboo and wood house belonging to a family of the Tay minority.  Modern plumbing has yet to reach Ban Ho, but that hardly matters as we were shown to a beautiful pool below a waterfall, where we savoured a much needed swim.  On arrival back at the house, our guide and family were preparing a delicious feast for us on an open fire, including freshly caught frog!  While eating dinner, shots of potent home-brewed rice wine were repeatedly offered to us (and of course, it would have been rude to refuse!)

The next morning we were woken by a dawn chorus of roosters, pigs and local wildlife.  After breakfasting on pancakes, it was time to say goodbye to the family, and hike back up the steep mountainside.  Unfortunately for us, the day was already heating up to be a scorcher, and by time we reached the top of the climb soaked in sweat, we decided to take the easy option of a jeep back to Sapa.  With the afternoon now free, we hired a motorbike and rode the 17km ascent to the top of Tram Ton Pass, Vietnam’s highest at 1900m. The road (and view from the summit) was spectacular, and a fitting farewell to Sapa before we boarded the bus for the trip back to Hanoi.

Halong

A three hour bus ride from Hanoi brought us to Halong City, the gateway to Vietnam’s most iconic attraction, the breathtaking Halong Bay. While the city itself hardly provides a great introduction (think a half-finished cut price Gold Coast built next door to a coal port!), the real reason to come here is out on the water. So we headed straight for the wharf, where a small wooden sampan ferried us out to our home for the next two days, the sailing junk Dragon’s Pearl, a beautiful four-decked timber vessel. We were shown to our cabin and served the first of several sumptuous meals as we cruised out into the bay.

Whilst you may have seen photos of Halong Bay, nothing can prepare you for how awe inspiring this place actually is until you are there in person. Over 3000 towering limestone islands surrounded us on all sides as our vessel cruised leisurely on the deep green, perfectly calm water. Relaxing on the sun deck with a drink in hand as we journied amongst the limestone karst formations, the bustle and chaos of civilisation seemed a million miles away with only the occasional tiny fishing boat for company.

In the early afternoon we arrived at Ti Top Island, which boasts spectacular 360 degree views of the bay from its summit, reached via a steep staircase. Those not feeling so energetic relaxed with a swim in the beautifully warm water at the island’s small beach.

Later in the afternoon we cruised to Hang Luon Island, where we again departed the Pearl and board the small sampan. We motored towards the island, and through a small tunnel in its sheer rock wall we arrived at a spectacular lagoon in the island’s hollow centre. One of several such refuges almost completely invisible to the outside world, it is easy to understand why Halong Bay has historically been a haven for smugglers.

We were treated to a spectacular sunset and then relaxed in the cool evening air, the bay around us dotted with the lights of a dozen other vessels sharing this safe anchorage.

The next morning we sailed to Bo Hon Island where we disembarked and ascended the stone staircase to the mouth of Hang Sung Sot Grotto, a spectacular limestone cave featuring (amongst other things) a penis-shaped rock said to be a potent fertility symbol.  Just to drive the point home, the pink lighting leaves nothing to the imagination!

We returned to the Pearl for lunch, and after a final swim it was time to cruise back to Halong City for the return trip to Hanoi.

Recommended: Handspan Adventure Travel came recommended to us by friends, who’d been on one of their Sapa treks.  We went on both a Sapa trek and Halong Bay cruise with the company, and highly recommend them in turn.  You can book in advance via their website (http://www.handspan.com) or at their office in Hanoi.

Hue

An overnight train trip south of Hanoi, Hue, which was formerly the imperial capital of Vietnam, is worth visiting to see the remains of Vietnam’s feudal splendour that have survived the French and American Wars.

Much of the city is surrounded by the moated Citadel walls, which form a 10km perimeter.  Within the walls is the Imperial Enclosure, where the emperor’s official functions were carried out.  In its very centre is the Forbidden Purple City, once reserved solely for the personal use of the emperor.  The only male servants allowed into this area at the time were eunuchs, who wouldn’t pose a threat to the emperor’s wives and concubines.

Unfortunately, Hue was the site of some of the fiercest fighting during the American War, and only 30% of the buildings remain standing.  However, what’s left still gives a glimpse of its former splendour.  Well worth seeing is the musical and dance performance held in the restored Royal Theatre.  It’s a delightful, colourful show.

Each emperor had built a tomb between 2km and 16km south of Hue on the banks of the Perfume River.  A cruise down the river brought us to the tomb of Emperor Tu Duc, who reigned from 1848 to 1883. As well as his final resting place, the tomb complex also served as Tu Duc’s summer palace during his lifetime. Surrounded by frangipani and pine trees, the tombs of Tu Duc, his main wife (Empress Loang Le Thien Anh), and his adopted son (Emperor Kien Phuc), along with the former living quarters, peacefully crumble under the hot Vietnamese sun. 

As we return to Hue we stoped off at the Thien Mu Pagoda.  The seven story octagonal tower, perched on a low hill at a bend in river, has become one of Vietnam’s most iconic landmarks due to the Pagoda’s history as a centre of anti-government protest during the 1960s. It was from Thein Mu that the monk Thich Quang Duc made his journey to Saigon where he publicly burnt himself alive. The photographic image of his kneeling, flame shrouded figure was relayed around the world (and is now known to many as the cover image from Rage Against The Machine’s debut album).

Recommended: Visit the tombs early in the morning if possible; the morning boat tours are much cheaper than hiring a boat later. It’s also cooler! Relax and dine surrounded by the delightful garden at the Tropical Garden Restaurant.

Hoi An

Once the main trading port in central Vietnam, the silting up of its river in the late 19th century left Hoi An to lapse into a sleepy backwater, retaining its historical buildings and old world charm.  Surviving the wars intact, its Old Town has now been listed by Unesco as a World Heritage site. 

You can choose between visiting several historical and cultural buildings in the Old Town with your entrance ticket.  Following the recommendations in our trusty Lonely Planet, we visited the Museum of Trading Ceramics, the Fujian Chinese Congregation Hall, Quan Cong’s Temple and Tan Ky House.  The latter was quite remarkable, with the family who showed us around still living in the 200 year old house.  Another impressive historical site is the ancient Japanese covered bridge.

The other significant attraction of Hoi An is its wealth of tailors.  Some tourists come simply to have whole wardrobes tailored at bargain prices.  For instance, David got a suit made for only US$65!  The service is fast (items take only half to one day to make) and the range of clothing that can be made is boundless.  Other items we had made included dress shirts, a dress, jeans and a silk kimono.  And don’t worry about your feet being forgotten, because the town is also full of cobblers.

50km from Hoi An is My Son, the most important remnant of the ancient Indian-influenced kingdom of Champa.  We hired a motorbike and left Hoi An early in the morning, to miss both the heat and the bus loads of tourists.  The temples were built between the 4th and 12th century, and after Champa’s decline survived largely intact until the 20th century – and the American war. During the war the Viet Cong decided that the now overgrown temples would serve well as a staging post, and the USA duly responded by bombing them, destroying the largest temple and damaging most of the others.

Make sure you don’t miss the performance of Cham music and dance.  It includes a very impressive performance by an old man who simultaneously plays the flute and dances, despite looking as if he could barely walk!

Another popular option in Hoi An is to do a cooking course.  We were recommended the Red Bridge Cooking School, and whilst it is pricier than the other courses (at US$12 including the meal) it’s a cut above the rest.  After a visit to the market, a boat takes you down the river to the fancy river-side Red Bridge restaurant, where you’ll have a chance to make some of the local specialities.

Recommended: Feast on delicious pastries at the Cargo Club.  Ask for the special of a pastry and drink, which will only set you back about $3.  Although we can’t remember the full name of a new café we visited on the main riverfront stretch (except for it including 99), it’s certainly worth searching for!  Delicious Vietnamese food, cheap cocktails, and there’s special menus on some nights, such as the grill night on Sundays. 

Nha Trang

Nha Trang is the most popular beach resort in Vietnam.  It’s situated on a long sandy beach with sparkling blue water, and offers Vietnam’s best diving amongst the islands offshore as well as a great selection of bars. After 1½ weeks on the road, it was time for some relaxing.

The first day in Nha Trang we did just that.  Heading down to the beach after breakfast, we hired a pair of chairs under an umbrella (for $1.20 each), and settled down.  There’s no need to rise, except to order drinks at the bar and go for the occasional dip in the water.  The locals come to you, offering you snack food, fresh seafood, cigarettes, postcards, even popular English language books.  In fact the most effort you’ll expend is in fending them off!  Best are all are the ladies offering massages.  They’re divine, and a full body massage lasting close to an hour will only set you back about $6.50.

The next day we headed out to the islands on a dive boat.  While David went diving, Shandos elected to keep to the relaxed pace and just snorkel.  Not that diving was that expensive: only US$37 for two boat dives, all transport, and a Vietnamese lunch on return.  Due to overfishing, there isn’t much large aquatic life.  However, the fish that were present were bright and varied, from schools of parrotfish to trumpetfish and even sweet clownfish.  The first location we visited wasn’t that spectacular coral-wise, but offered some great swim throughs for the scuba divers.  The next location was better for snorkelling, a veritable garden of coral at shallow depths and a variety of moray eels. 

Whilst daytime is great for relaxing, come sunset it’s time to hit the bars.  The first spot we visited was the Nha Trang Sailing Club.  A luxurious beachside bar and restaurant, it’s expensive by Vietnamese standards, but is the place to go late at night thanks to being the last to close.  Next up was Guava, a very hip bar run by a trio of Canadians.  We were lucky enough to visit on the Bellini Special night, meaning that instead of paying a measly $2.50 per each cocktail, we got two for that price!  A few doors down is Crazy Kim Bar.  A Mexican themed backpackers haunt, Kim’s is worth visiting just to support her ‘Hands off the Kids!’ campaign, which targets the growing problem of paedophilia in the city. 

Recommended: Cyclo Café, which served us up deliciously presented food at excellent prices. A welcome change from the cheap tourist t-shirts are Kim Quang’s handpainted t-shirts.  He works from his wheelchair at the Nha Trang Sailing Club.

Ho Chi Minh City

A vast, sprawling city, HCMC (aka Saigon) is home to over 6 million Vietnamese and 4 million motorbikes – seemingly all of them constantly on the street presenting a ostensibly insurmountable barrier to cross it.  We were glad that we didn’t start our trip in HCMC; we found the traffic here daunting enough even after nearly two weeks in Vietnam.

After arriving early morning on the overnight train from Nha Trang, we headed straight to the Pham Ngu Lao district, the mecca for HCMC’s budget travellers with its warren of streets harbouring a myriad of bars, restaurants, mini-hotels and souvenir shops.

After locating a hotel and ditching our gear, we then promptly left the city again (albeit just for the day) and headed south to My Tho on the edge of the Mekong Delta. A day isn’t enough time to make a proper trip into the Delta, but it still allowed us a taste of life in this unique part of Vietnam.  After visiting the market in My Tho, we took a boat trip into the island province of Ben Tre.  Travelling by small boat through the narrow river channels, we made multiple stops at a longan plantation, a coconut candy and wine factory, and a honey farm.

Returning to HCMC, David decided to check out what the bars in Pham Ngu Lao had to offer. The large concentration of travellers, typically cheap Vietnamese alcohol and general disdain for regulations ensure that the bars here are lively.  A pretty heavy-duty drinking session ensued, culminating in an impromptu alcohol fuelled high-jump competition in the middle of a crowded bar with predictably messy results!

The next morning we again boarded a bus and headed out of the city, bound for Cu Chi and the site of its famous Viet Cong tunnel complex. A small section of the tunnels have been opened for tourists, and even a short crawl through the stifling heat and darkness is enough to induce claustrophobia and leave you in awe of the fighters who spent years conducting a guerrilla war from their confines. A selection of the vicious war-era booby traps is also on display, but probably the biggest drawcard apart from the tunnels themselves is the firing range, where for US$1 per round you get the chance to fire off a range of weapons, including the legendary AK-47.  On our return to HCMC, we were dropped off at the War Remnants Museum, where the graphic displays of wartime atrocities drive home the senseless brutality of war to great effect.

Our final two days in HCMC were spent exploring the city itself. On the first day we decided to explore by foot, wandering through various regions of the city to the upmarket shopping district of Don Khoi. Here amid the elegant French colonial architecture, HCMC has all the trappings of a modern Western city, with air-conditioned shopping malls and upmarket fashion boutiques offering luxury items at luxury price tags. Any temptation to wander further was halted at this point by a ferocious tropical downpour – amazingly this was the first rain we’d seen since our first night in Hanoi, but it certainly made us glad we hadn’t come a month later when the rainy season had arrived!

With a final half-day to spare, we were accosted by one of the many cyclo drivers who hang around Pham Ngu Lao looking for business. We decided to take a tour of the sights that we had yet to view, which proved to be an excellent move. Our guide Ngia was a South Vietnamese war veteran and proved a wonderful guide to the city, keeping up a constant stream of commentary in his broken English. Denied proper employment by the government due to having fought for the South, he gave as a different view of life under the communist regime from the perspective of somebody less fortunate. We visited Cholon, HCMC’s bustling Chinese district, and after stopping at one of the many ornate pagodas and a lacquer ware factory, David decided to try a uniquely Vietnamese lunch at one of the area’s dog meat restaurants (and if you’re wondering, dog tastes somewhat like pork!)

And then it was off to the airport, and time to leave behind Vietnam.  Our return to Australia and the Western world after two and a half weeks in Vietnam was quite a shock to the system, and Vietnam quickly seemed an entire world away.  However, the sights, sounds and smells of this amazing country have left an indelible impression on both of us, and it’s only a matter of time until we return!

Recommended: Getting tired of Vietnamese food?  California Burritos is run by a real California, and can make better burritos that you can find in Sydney for far cheaper! Another great non-Vietnamese option is Good Morning Vietnam.  Serving up yummy traditional pizzas, this restaurant also has other branches including one each in Nha Trang and Hoi An.

You need to be logged in to add comments... Login Now

There are 0 user comments